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Sudafricana 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 230', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 745
Submitted By: J Med on Dec 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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The crux undercling (P2) of Sudafricana. Photo Cr...

Description 

Beautiful natural line up the North face of La Vieja, passing the intimidating roof via a layback crack on the right. Nice, steep climbing on solid orange granite.

Protection 

Single rack should suffice- #5 Camalot may be useful to protect the wide crack following the crux roof section.


Photos of Sudafricana Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice face climbing over orange granite on third pi...
Nice face climbing over orange granite on third pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: The line: straight up to the roof, layback to off ...
The line: straight up to the roof, layback to off ...
Rock Climbing Photo: North face of La Vieja, with Sudafricana marked. W...
BETA PHOTO: North face of La Vieja, with Sudafricana marked. W...

Comments on Sudafricana Add Comment
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By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Jan 12, 2015

Great route! It's possible to link p1 and 2 easily with minimal rope drag. A #5 is not necessary but a #4 is nice to have.
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A really good climb. We had the #5 BD cam and it was handy to have for the wide sections, although not necessary if you're strong at the grade.

This is a pretty burly climb. The layback is powerful and the wide section following it is some full body climbing.

The spot where we belayed after P1 (see picture) was hanging and a bit annoying. Linking P1-2 or finding a slightly different spot (lower) might be a good idea.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Mar 4, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'm not sure why this route is described as four pitches, because I think it is routinely climbed in 3 per Rolo's guidebook. P1 goes up the crack to a hanging gear belay under the roof. P2 turns the roof at the 6a+ crux and then goes up through the squeeze chimney and offwidth for about 30-35 meters until under the rightward flake traverse. P3 tackles the delicate traverse and then goes straight up to the summit.

It's a great route with a really cool summit. W/o a #5, the squeeze and offwidth are fairly exciting but not especially difficult. The offwidth has some face holds that can be used, although the climbing is just a bit tricky.

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