|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 230', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||J Med on Dec 18, 2011|
|Comments on Sudafricana||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Golden, CO
Jan 12, 2015
|Great route! It's possible to link p1 and 2 easily with minimal rope drag. A #5 is not necessary but a #4 is nice to have.|
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A really good climb. We had the #5 BD cam and it was handy to have for the wide sections, although not necessary if you're strong at the grade.
This is a pretty burly climb. The layback is powerful and the wide section following it is some full body climbing.
The spot where we belayed after P1 (see picture) was hanging and a bit annoying. Linking P1-2 or finding a slightly different spot (lower) might be a good idea.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Mar 4, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm not sure why this route is described as four pitches, because I think it is routinely climbed in 3 per Rolo's guidebook. P1 goes up the crack to a hanging gear belay under the roof. P2 turns the roof at the 6a+ crux and then goes up through the squeeze chimney and offwidth for about 30-35 meters until under the rightward flake traverse. P3 tackles the delicate traverse and then goes straight up to the summit.
It's a great route with a really cool summit. W/o a #5, the squeeze and offwidth are fairly exciting but not especially difficult. The offwidth has some face holds that can be used, although the climbing is just a bit tricky.