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SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky T 
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Unknown Right Crack T 

SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Ross Swanson, Mike Endicott, George Bracksieck
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Ross Swanson on Jul 3, 2017

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P1 follows a crack in a left-slanting dihedral.

Description 

P1. Climb up cracks and small ledges to a roof, and go left under the roof and following slanting cracks in dihedrals & under roofs to the left. Watch for loose blocks. At about 30 meters, set a belay at a small ledge at edge of rock face just above blocky corners.

P2. Step up, and traverse right for 7 meters then up to huge ledge. With double ropes, you may combine this with P1, otherwise the rope drag would be great.

P3. Walk right on a ledge until below a big, left-facing corner. Sprint up broken cracks using your #4.5 at a large gap. Follow cracks up and left around corners.

Location 

After crossing bridge, walk upstream 50 feet, turn left, and head to a clearing. At a rock face, scramble around on the left side in a loop on 3rd Class terrain to gain the upper ledge.

Protection 

A standard rack + #4 & #4.5 Camalots.


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By George Bracksieck
Jul 12, 2017

Mike noticed this line on June 11, and we climbed it on June 18. The first pitch looked improbable and dirty. The third pitch begins near the right end of a big wide ledge and climbs a series of left-facing dihedrals, jogging left to reach each successive one. Ross led p.1 and 3. Mike led p.2.

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