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Sucker Punch 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces South, and NOT for hot weather.
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2015

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  • Description 

    I get the name, it hits you here and there with cheap shots when you don't expect it. Grainy hold sheds, lichen in the eyes from the ledge when you look up and grab, anchors just out of reach from the good stance, hard to clean because of the anchor arrangement, etc.... I've had better days weeding my garden, but if you insist....

    You almost want to start from the ledge as for the others, but the bad holds are at bad angles and everything is dirty. It might be 11d there, or harder, but it is hard to say, it is so dirty. So you go a few moves up the corner to your left. The holds follow you, still too far left, so you go up the corner further... eventually you are at the level of the bolt. Clip that then back down a move and start there. You are now a few meters up the corner, reducing the remaining climbing to 20'-25', but at least you won't kill yourself and your belayer if you fall.

    Continue up to the second bolt and stare at the anchors. They are way off to the right. The sequence is slightly left, but the rock above it is not really anchor worthy. Figure out eh interesting, but dirty sequence and get the top, then step right to clip the anchors.

    The anchors are 2 bolts about 2' apart with a single split link parallel to the wall on each so that the rope is tough to thread or pull.

    Have fun, if this is your sort of thing.


    This is the left most bolted line on the wall, with 2 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor.


    2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. It has old rusted stuff, but at least it is 3/8". The first bolt is high and above the big sloping corner. If you attempt to go directly up from the ledge and not up the corner, and you fall before clipping the first bolt, you and your belayer could end up going 30 yards down. Pray that one of you is in good enough condition to call 911 if you even have reception. The moves there are thin 11d and slightly dirty.

    I did note that a 1.5" to 2.5" cam could be placed low and left into a crack at knee level of the belayer to improve the chances of a catch on that, but we had no such gear.

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