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Mile Marker 5
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Succubus T 

Succubus 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c C1 [details]
FA: P1 David Mealey and Molly Fitzpatrick P2&3 David M. and Bud?
New Route: Yes
Season: Great summer route
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: David Mealey on Jan 22, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Succubus from the car park

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch one follows the corner until it starts to feel hard, then steps right about 5 feet to a wide splitter that ends at a ledge.(50') Continue up the corner past a small roof and some loose rock(not much) to a ledge with a belay.(180')5.10
Pitch two, follow corner through beautiful fingers to a hanging belay.(100')
Pitch three climbs a flake via steep thin hands(5.11-crux)to a roof. The roof has yet to go free but probably will some day. It is about ten feet and goes from #2 to #.5's. Finish by climbing obvious cracks and features to anchors.
The route ends at a giant roof about 30' from the top of the wall.
There is only 2 or 3 moves of C1 and the rest is great free climbing. A very worthy route.

Location 

If you are parked at mile 5, look up the side canyon that comes in there. The route is on the right at the mouth of the canyon. It is the large open dihedral. It is very obvious.
Rappel from the top of pitch 3 to the top of pitch one then to the ground

Protection 

Bring a double set of cams from #.5 to #5 friend, a set of stoppers and long runners.
There are two bolt anchors at all three belays.


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