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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 1,704
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Jan 8, 2007

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Slippery roof moves. Peter on Succubus.

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  • Description 

    This is a killer line up the entire north face of Tom's Thumb. A treat for the well rounded trad climber. The start, in a box, appears unappealing but the jams are fun. Then undercling right with slick feet to a small right facing corner with a crack, which starts with tips but becomes more secure as you go higher. The short transition from roof to corner is about 10c or harder (I pulled on a piece to get around). The upper crack starts with a short section of wide hands and then becomes a very long run of offwidthing with some squeezing chimneys thrown in. The locals at Vedauwoo would be jealous. Gear anchor at the top. Walk right (west) to rappel anchors with slings and rap rings. Single rope rappel with a sixty meter.


    When you approach Tom's Thumb, walk around the base to the right into the shade. Only go a short distance and you will see a box with poor looking rock with a roof. The roof has a crack that angles up and right to a right facing corner and a wide crack going straight up from there.


    Bring a full standard rack. You may want a thin fingertip piece like a black alien to help protect the start of the corner. As for the upper wide crack, I would take at least one offwidth piece which means long, long runouts. If you want protection every 10 feet, you'll need at least one green Camalot and several (3-4) offwidth pieces.

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    By Brandon Bogardus
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Feb 3, 2007

    Hey Joe!
    Sorry, but that undercling on the first pitch (with the slippery feat) is definitely solid 5.10 something. The upper offwidths are scary and exposed, and the single bolt on the route is questionable (as of 2003). So in my humble opinion, you better be way solid at the grade (5.10), in order to do this climb. I bet Greg Opland will agree.
    By Aerili
    From: Los Alamos, NM
    Mar 5, 2007

    Yeah, Brandon-- Joe and I actually put it at approx 10c overall. So you mistook his comment for a sandbag. =)
    By lou
    Feb 12, 2008

    Just led this awesome climb!! One long pitch with everything from zero BD cam ( @ crux of slippery corner) to several #4s on the upper offwidth. Hmmm more like 10c IMHO. Great pro... can walk a #4 most the way up for the last 50 feet or so. New bolt at the start of the upper section. Do it!! Lou....
    By jayci
    From: Flagstaff
    Dec 6, 2010
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    It is very possible to get your rope stuck on this climb. It would be much easier if not for the slippery nature of the roof. Less than awesome:(
    By arjunmh
    From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
    Feb 19, 2012

    If you're not secure on jamming (like me), then having plenty of bigger gear will be key. Thank you whoever got the nut stuck at the slick undercling, helped protect my falls there well!
    By Peterslug
    From: Phoenix, AZ
    Apr 16, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A technical reachy move around the chimney while placing a piece on a fingertip lieback and smearing feet...resulted in another stuck nut around the corner. Two bolts after the first pitch, one old, one new. There are few placements to the left and at the start of the crack for gear backups for the suspect old bolt. Overall, it is much easier on the third go.

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