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Tower One Area
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Substance Abuse 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  TR, 22'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Nov 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Substance Abuse

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Description 

This is a hard face problem, involving thin edging moves over a just slightly less than vertical face. Kinda dicey up high, as there are really no give-away moves. Descent to the left corner

Location 

This route is found at the base of Tower One, in the shade.

Protection 

TR bolts


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 12, 2007

Two TR bolts have been installed on this, as of 6.12.07
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 26, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thanks for the bolts Adam. Maybe I was on fire, but I didn't feel this route was as hard as suggested. Still fun though.
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Oct 1, 2011

Me and Allenby did this one BITD. Thanks to whomever added the bolts. I cant remember what we rated it, but 5.11 seems a bit steep. I remember it as thin 10+.
By dtomczik
From: Bishop, CA
May 4, 2012

In my opinion, this is one of the best edging problems of the grade at Woodson.
By Michael Lagueux
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

On 7/20/13, the big edge at the start broke off as a climber stepped off of it. We didn't climb the route after this happened, so we are unsure if the difficulty has changed. If you climb(ed) the route after 7/20/13, please give your feedback!
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

^^^

I climbed it again recently and didn't notice any change in difficulty. Feels anywhere from 10c to 11a depending on the day.

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