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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Brayack, Matt Fanning, 2008
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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  • Description 

    This is a fairly solid route for the grade, nearly all of it will have your attention. Start by grabbing the long horizontal ledge and pull up to gain a stance. Head up and left toward a thin slab. Make some very thin moves and head toward the overhanging upper section. Clip the last bolt and work your way up the right edge of the arete, making a desperate reach for the clipping jug for the shuts (crux).


    This route climbs the striking white face immediately to the right of U Boat, 5.12a and about 15 feet to the left of the start of Depth Charge, 5.12b.


    6 bolts, shuts.

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    By BrianWS
    May 29, 2015
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Strange reengineering on this one.

    The route follows a natural line and weakness up the slab and trends to the right side of the arete -- yet the bolt has been moved left and the anchors have been moved away down and left as well, apparently in an attempt to force a direct finish.

    Following the weakness right keeps the grade at pretty solid 12a, but with a nasty fall and difficult rope management during the cruxy finish. The direct variation feels much, much more contrived and difficult.

    I'm assuming the FA did the bolt repositioning, but this would be a four star route had it not been changed.
    By Dan Brayack
    From: Marmet, WV
    Oct 2, 2016

    Funny. I actually changed it at the suggestion of a BD athlete. It originally had no anchor, but traversed right to the anchor out right...Oh well. You win some you lose some. Either way, stick the top then clip the anchor.

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