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Submarine Dog 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Super badass guy that sounds like Paco
New Route: Yes
Season: Whenever
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Oct 2, 2013

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Super cool traverse, looking back.

Description 

The first pitch is the good part. A 5.7 or whatever crack up to some lower angle crap to a super loose ledge with really big sharp pointy blocks of imminent peril, followed by more crack up and then a super cool airy traverse left. Super fun when yer alone, dawg! I don't remember the pitch length. Who cares, nobody's ever gonna climb it again.

Pitch 2 starts off loose, then there's a cool fin thing that goes at like 5.8 or whatever, probably 5.1 for all you high speed interthugz. Goes under a big tree (good hauling here if solo), then up some truly awful rock. Bad even for the San Gabes. Then finishes after some more neat moves in a little alcove thingy with a tree. Class 4 to the top.

Hike east following game trails down the easy gully about 400ft east of topout. Check yer map. You'll go straight down the gully to the wilderness boundary, and that big boulder and sign.

Note that this route was done on lead solo with a modded Grigri.

Location 

This route starts on the large ledge directly to the left of the final rappel down Sheep Canyon's headwall. This is the furthest you can hike up the canyon (some class 4) without breaking out the rope for any moves more than like 15ft off the deck.

Look up at the right side of the headwall and you should see the Sheep Canyon Spire. The route will be on your left going up the obvious crack system on the left of a nice sorta-blank face.

Protection 

-70m rope
-Doubles from C4 #.5 - #4, one #5
-Tiny cams (X4's and WC Zeroes)
-Lots of slings


Photos of Submarine Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: More of P1. I did not follow the crack to the top ...
More of P1. I did not follow the crack to the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 start. Easy cool moves. Decent solo anchor area...
P1 start. Easy cool moves. Decent solo anchor area...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the lower half of P1 at the dead tree l...
Looking up the lower half of P1 at the dead tree l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Super duper cool traverse on P1. SUBMARINE DOG NEV...
Super duper cool traverse on P1. SUBMARINE DOG NEV...

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