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Unsorted Routes:

Subline 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, Bob Anderson, 1972
Page Views: 5,714
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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sublime

Description 

Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.

If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable. There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.

Location 

Immediately right of Unconquerable Crack

Protection 

Mostly medium and small.


Photos of Subline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route
Rock Climbing Photo: Left leg knee bar and a small brass offset go grea...
BETA PHOTO: Left leg knee bar and a small brass offset go grea...
Rock Climbing Photo: George on Subline
George on Subline
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Subline.  It's possible to wedge your...
The start of Subline. It's possible to wedge your...

Comments on Subline Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 12, 2016
By Marc H
From: Denver
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Bring a couple of hand-sized pieces. They will be the last decent piece of protection you get for the top-out.

If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees.
By Rusty Reno
Aug 10, 2009

Ages ago I failed on this route. Then Henry Barber, who was belaying me with a smile took over the lead and gave me a clinic. Magnificent, both Henry styling in the lead and the route, which is undoubtedly one of the best in CT.
By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Aug 18, 2010

"If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees."

Great advice for all of climbing in Connecticut.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 16, 2010

I took a partial ground fall on this early in my climbing career. A TCU popped out of a slot when I jumped. Whitey saved me by reeling in slack fast enough that the rope took most of the force on a small wire and I only bruised my back and didn't break it on the flat rock below.
By coolaid
Nov 18, 2010

Just had a really experienced friend have a red alien pull on this too. Made for a frighteningly long fall close to the block.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Sep 19, 2011

Rusty: Were there fixed pins on this route when Barber did the FA?
By Bababata
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Indeed, there are no pins on the route right now. And none are needed - there is good pro to be found all the way to the top.
A highly recommended lead - varied and technical climbing, very sustained for the grade. As mentioned in the description, pro can be strenuous to place...
By Sagan
Sep 6, 2012

Great climb and safe to lead. The trick to getting the gear to be bomber is to place small cams in the horizontal cracks.I Would definitely consider it a ragged mountain testpiece and a climb that is well worth working on lead.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 7, 2016

Sorry folks, but this is not 5.10!

Maybe if you TR this thing into submission if might feel like 5.10. However, I think the ground-up onsight lead grade is solid 5.11 - and very sustained at that, with multiple cruxes. The issue is that some of the gear placements compete with the finger placements, making it a pumpy lead. So a successful onsight lead is an impressive undertaking.
By DontHassleMeImLocal
Dec 8, 2016

@Nick - as someone who as onsighted the route, I will say that yes, the route grade as 10+ (10d), maybe even 11a, is fair. HOWEVER, I grew up climbing traprock. I understand the subtleties, holds, and strangeness of movement that it presents. If you have never climbed this type of rock, it can seem grades harder.

I think that is one of the BIG discrepancies with grading in this state. For many who know this rock (and those who TR the crap out of a route before leading it), it isn’t as perplexing or difficult as it would be for someone who frequently climbed fairly obvious and easy-to-read granite (note: all rock types present their own unique challenges). I strongly believe with your caliber of climbing, if you spent 6 months to a year climbing and bouldering strictly on traprock, and then got on Subline, your judgement of grade would differ. I look at routes like “It’s Only Entertainment” and think that is WAY harder than 11c, but I don’t climb the Dacks much. Anyways, my 2 cents…
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Dec 9, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Jeremy, was this a true onsight or a CT "TR flash" onsight?I have to ask since most folks who grew up around here TR the shit out of the crags for years before leading 5.8. Personally I find Forearm Frenzy to be much easier of a climb all while having a true modern grade.
By DontHassleMeImLocal
Dec 12, 2016

Well, this isn’t Jeremy. I just use one of his emails. Jeremy is “Topo Gigio” But to answer your question, a true onsight. Ground up. No movement beta. Only beta had was the key nut mentioned to me by a friend who had recently lead it. But he and I both avoided climbing Ragged for a long time. Climbed everywhere else in CT and built up a fair repertoire on gear. Now we’ve been trying to onsight as much there. But I hear you, most in CT, ourselves included, TR long before leading many routes. Come to think of it, IDK about Jeremy, but I pretty much only TR’d the Amphetheater routes. Everything else was seconding or lead.