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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Henry Barber, Bob Anderson, 1972
Page Views: 6,322
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Another classic Ragged testpiece. Start at a roof immediately right of Unconquerable. Pull the roof into some tiny cracks and then climb mostly straight up. This pitch keeps coming at you and is a burly lead. The pro is all there but it's hard to hang and place it. Now that the fixed pins are gone this has become a real test of leading skills.

If you want to TR this (and Unconquerable), locate a pine tree that's about 10 - 15 feet down from the top of the cliff that marks this route and Unconquerable. There is gear near the tree to set an anchor.


Immediately right of Unconquerable Crack


Mostly medium and small.

Photos of Subline Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route
Rock Climbing Photo: Left leg knee bar and a small brass offset go grea...
BETA PHOTO: Left leg knee bar and a small brass offset go grea...
Rock Climbing Photo: George on Subline
George on Subline
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Subline.  It's possible to wedge your...
The start of Subline. It's possible to wedge your...

Comments on Subline Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2017
By Marc H
From: Denver
Dec 7, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Bring a couple of hand-sized pieces. They will be the last decent piece of protection you get for the top-out.

If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees.
By Rusty Reno
Aug 10, 2009

Ages ago I failed on this route. Then Henry Barber, who was belaying me with a smile took over the lead and gave me a clinic. Magnificent, both Henry styling in the lead and the route, which is undoubtedly one of the best in CT.
By Devin Krevetski
From: Northfield, VT
Aug 18, 2010

"If you're going to TR the route, try to use gear instead of the trees."

Great advice for all of climbing in Connecticut.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 16, 2010

I took a partial ground fall on this early in my climbing career. A TCU popped out of a slot when I jumped. Whitey saved me by reeling in slack fast enough that the rope took most of the force on a small wire and I only bruised my back and didn't break it on the flat rock below.
By coolaid
Nov 18, 2010

Just had a really experienced friend have a red alien pull on this too. Made for a frighteningly long fall close to the block.
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
Sep 19, 2011

Rusty: Were there fixed pins on this route when Barber did the FA?
By Bababata
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Indeed, there are no pins on the route right now. And none are needed - there is good pro to be found all the way to the top.
A highly recommended lead - varied and technical climbing, very sustained for the grade. As mentioned in the description, pro can be strenuous to place...
By Sagan
Sep 6, 2012

Great climb and safe to lead. The trick to getting the gear to be bomber is to place small cams in the horizontal cracks.I Would definitely consider it a ragged mountain testpiece and a climb that is well worth working on lead.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Nov 7, 2016

Sorry folks, but this is not 5.10!

Maybe if you TR this thing into submission if might feel like 5.10. However, I think the ground-up onsight lead grade is solid 5.11 - and very sustained at that, with multiple cruxes. The issue is that some of the gear placements compete with the finger placements, making it a pumpy lead. So a successful onsight lead is an impressive undertaking.
By T Roper
Dec 9, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Jeremy, was this a true onsight or a CT "TR flash" onsight?I have to ask since most folks who grew up around here TR the shit out of the crags for years before leading 5.8. Personally I find Forearm Frenzy to be much easier of a climb all while having a true modern grade.
By Tyler Stableford
May 17, 2017

Caution: the well-chalked flake/tooth about 30 feet up and to the left of the crack is dangerously loose. It wiggles and is just about ready to go; I couldn't quite pull it out but it will no doubt release on an unsuspecting climber, with potentially disastrous consequences. I'd recommend bringing a crowbar to extract it. I was only visiting for an afternoon from out of state or I'd go back and do it myself.
By Kevin Johnson
May 27, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The well chalked flake/tooth that Tyler mentioned is no longer there. This changes the sequence into the shallow right facing corner, but is no harder. Climb on.

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