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Sub-Mission 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Cochrane (1970's) FFA Don Reid and Grant Hiskes (Aug, '84)
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Jared Malapit stemming above the triple cracks of ...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent corner climb located at the very toe of the North Buttress, just to the left of where the trail up meets the base.

Climb up a chimney to start with a little awkwardness exiting it. Then jam and lieback the corner to a set of bolted anchors. Sort of pumpy. There is another set of anchors higher up, just below the roof, and the climbing looks good. I got about 15 feet up this extension but down-climbed to the first anchor after encountering several wasps around the crack. You can just barely set up a toprope from the lower anchor with a 70m rope.

Protection 

Pro to 4", extra finger and thin hands sizes if you're going all the way to the second anchor.


Photos of Sub-Mission Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared Malapit stemming below the crux on the "...
Jared Malapit stemming below the crux on the "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cams used for linking "Submission," into...
BETA PHOTO: Cams used for linking "Submission," into...

Comments on Sub-Mission Add Comment
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By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Dec 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

What a great climb, best there is at the crag.
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Jun 20, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very aesthetic and challenging line. Awesome wide awkwardness and chimneying to start followed by a section of jamming triple cracks then enduro liebacking and stemming the rest of the way. This climb naturally goes to the upper anchor (AKA the "Extendo-mission"). The 1st anchor stops at 35m so you can lower off or rap with a single 70m rope, but definitely keep going since there is some great climbing in the last 7m or so up to the 2nd anchor.

I feel like even just climbing to the first anchor goes at 11a. The crux section would take gear but it is fairly strenuous making it difficult to place gear there. A yellow C3 or 0.3 size cam protects just below the crux. The crux probably takes a 0.4. I recommend bringing a couple #3's and a #4 in addition to doubles of red C3 through #2 Camalots, with triples of 0.3. It may also be nice to have triples of 0.75. No nuts needed.

Rock Climbing Photo: Cams used for linking "Submission," into...
Cams used for linking "Submission," into, "Extendo-mission."

From the upper anchor, either top belay there and make two single rope rappels (1 double) or set up a ground belay toprope using two ropes. The belayer can tie a rope to the end of the lead line, passing the knot when lowering the leader to the ground. The leader will likely have to clean the first few pieces of gear to let the knot travel high enough to bring the leader to the ground. Once the leader is on the ground, tie the other end of the extra rope to the leaders end (forming a big loop with the two ropes) and pull the opposite end back down to retrieve the first knot, untie it, and then tie the follower in to that rope side clipped through all the gear. Alternatively, the leader might be able to go off belay at the upper anchor, pull the rope up through all the gear, then toss an end back down to have the belayer tie the second rope to it (pay attention that it is tied to the correct side of the anchor (climber's left)). Other ways to do this would be to have the leader climb with the extra rope attached, or do a counter-balance belay where the follower ties in and climbs while the leader takes up slack by lowering off the other side until reaching the ground then belaying as normal (when finished the follower would make two single rope rappels).

It is possible to toprope a 13a sport route, "The Mission," after reaching the 2nd anchor.

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