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Stupid Human Tricks 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: EFR, Kevin Carmichael, Tejal Parikh
Page Views: 739
Submitted By: ryan dillon on Jul 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The lower slab is thoughtful but fun (for slab). T...


Slab climbing for first few bolts then breaks left to dihedral. After going left follow bolt line up to chains.


Bolts and chains

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By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2015

Does anyone have beta for the mantle at the 2nd to last bolt? Couldn't convince myself to try an over the head heel hook and bailed today.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 19, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I need to get out more as I still remember this from weeks ago.


Traverse from the left using crimps and small feet to clip the second to last bolt. Clipping from here was a reach for me at 6'0" +0; the FAist would have had to do the moves before clipping. Move part way back and step up with the right foot to reach the ledge just above the second to last bolt. Traverse to just right of the bolt line. Use crimps to work your feet up. High left heel hook or toe at waist level. This move is awkward. Left hand on a crystal-like feature immediately to the right of the final bolt. Right hand comes in right above left while your body sinks down into a frog position. Reach a decent horizontal edge up and to the left of the bolt. Finally make a long reach for a fat jug from which you can pull yourself to the chains.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 19, 2015

Ah, I must have had a mental block about leaving the jugs as I didn't try right of the bolt line. Thank you very much for the detailed response. I didn't know how asking for beta on here would be received, but I don't know anyone who has done this climb.
By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 9, 2015

I vividly recall bailing from this route after not being able to do the top many years ago.

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