Stupid Human Trick
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BETA PHOTO: Red - Little Green Apples. Blue - My Big Red Catch...
The name says it all. This is the broken arete 15' right of Daddy Dwarf
. Starting directly below this feature is a reachy crux boulder problem (B5.10). If you're smart, you'll crank the problem, step left, and scramble off. If you're like me, you keep going and wind up on top (B5.8). The boulder problem is worthwhile, but the landing is broken and worth a big crash pad if you expect to fall off. Above the start, don't fall.
A crash pad and a good reason for living.
By George Bracksieck
Dec 28, 2013
Toproping this is easy from the Gru anchor. My height is 5 ft 8 1/2 in, and I think that the crux start is 5.9. The crux is finished upon reaching a horizontal crack at about 11 feet. Some gear placements (tiny cams and maybe a #2 Camalot) are possible in the horizontal. From the horizontal, make a long crank to a jug (psychological crux, 5.8). Continue up easier moves to the summit.