Stump the Stars
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
Despite it being short with slightly dirty rock, I believe this has got to be one of the most fun crack climbs around. Though, to be sure, I haven't done that many of the local crack climbs harder than 11a. If more people climbed it, the rock would clean up.
Originally, I thought this was stout for the grade. But, rethinking it, the rating probably is spot on compared to routes like Coyne Crack and S-Crack's third pitch crack. The difference, which is what makes this route awesome, is that it is more sequential than the aforementioned; it is not just a "plug and chug", "grin and bear it" crack.
From the base, start up the right crack - tips and few fingers on a slightly less-than-vertical wall. About 20 feet up, make the transition into the left crack and climb more tips/tight fingers to overhanging wall, pull 10 foot overhanging wall via thin hands, and continue to bolted anchors.
Use approach info to reach the wall on the area page. Once you reach the first wall you come to hiking up the drainage, hike directly east following the wall. Right before you are about to drop down into the first drainage you come to, walk uphill for 50 feet. The route is located on the wall you are walking along, on the left margin of the wall. It is slightly hidden by a large pine tree. Just look for the overhanging thin hands splitter.
A set of nuts, TCU's, and cams to 2 inches; heavier on the purple and blue TCU's and .75 Camalots.
Also, the webbing strung through the bolts is pretty faded. A future party may want to replace it.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 7, 2013
This thing looks kinda easy from the ground, a few finger locks, a reach across with good feet, then bomber hands to the chains. Not really. I was spat off like bad thai food. The crux is by far the top "thin hands" section, ie .75 ringlocks through some overhung terrain. There are no "hand jams" up there unless you're a third grader. Hard for how short it is.
Anchor sling with locker in good condition. The approach directions are excellent. The trail through the boulders to the approach gully seems kinda long and heads directly west, not up like I thought might, but you should never be bushwacking to get to the gully. You do have to shwack after leaving the gully at the first wall, but its not horrible. A few cairns are present.
Gear: single rack from green c3 to .75 with extra .3/.75 camalots. Red #1's dont fit anywhere, so don't bring em.