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Tralfamadore Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
22 Bottles of Queer on the Wall T 
Beautiful Day T 
Book of Wasps T 
Edge of an Age T 
Hop Knot T 
Lost Highway T 
Studio 54 T 
Tralfamadore T 

Studio 54 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Verm?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Oct 13, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Studio 54

Description 

Studio 54 is the best crack system in between Beautiful Day and Tralfamador and is more or less the direct and complete version of "Man's Gotta Climb and Wonder Why" as referenced in Toula's book. This long varied pitch features an exciting steep thin hands crux, and glorious splitter headwall.

Begin next to a giant bush and right facing wide crack. Boulder up to the top of the flake and into crack systems in the face, some vegetation. Work into somewhat of a slot and up through the crux. Finish jamming through the headwall and up to the rim!

Location 

In between Beautiful Day and Tralfamador.

Protection 

stoppers, and at least doubles cams up to #3. a #4 C4 is handy at the beginning.
Belay anchor consists of hand sized cams.


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