REI Community
No Money Down (Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coveted, The T 
Dung Beetle S 
Easy Terms S 
False Modesty S 
Mr. Popular S 
No Money Down S 
Payment Plan, The S 
Repossession S 
Rose Garden S 
Student Loan S 
Thou Shalt Not Covet S 
Truth in Advertising S 

Student Loan 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kasia Weglarz
Page Views: 2,156
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ludovic Maire fighting the roof.

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Climb the arete right of No Money Down (5.10c), then up the slab to the roof.... Undercling and crimp your way to a big move to a good hold and to the shared anchors of The Coveted, 5.11b.

I've heard this route called 5.11a, but I think its crux is harder, so I called it 5.11b....


Just right of No Money Down (5.10c).... Climb the arete to the slab and roof to old anchors of The Coveted (5.11b).


6 bolts to chains....

Photos of Student Loan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling through the roof
Pulling through the roof

Comments on Student Loan Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 13, 2015
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
May 16, 2007

The Coveted has been deleted per the request of the submitter. What is the history of Student Loan, in regard to The Coveted? Does anyone know who did what first and why The Coveted was erased by Student Loan?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 17, 2007

I am under the impression that the original line (The Coveted 5.11b) went up what is now Thou Shalt Not Covet (5.9) and broke left and finished up what is now Student Loan (5.11a).... I did the link up, and it didn't flow too well (I used a piece of gear and a few long runners....

I did get my info from a website, so it could be incorrect. So please correct me if I'm wrong....
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

You are correct Lee. When the route was cleaned, the Coveted was found to be pretty contrived feeling, therefore anchors were placed more to the right, resulting in Though Shalt Not Covet. An easier (for most) way to the old anchors was found coming in from the left, which I bolted for Kasia Weglarz to do, hence "Student Loan". The Coveted (originally done by Ed Suel (sp?) I believe, or another fellow Rhodie Loady) can still be done of course, but it is not too highly recommended.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The bomb,Jay? lol. It's not that bad!
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
May 14, 2010

The Coveted FA was M. Johnson, T. Armstrong, and J. Shimberg August 1988
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

..Mac Johnson of Mac's Traverse, Lincoln Woods fame. Thanks, Glenn.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
May 15, 2010

Yeah, maybe I'm being a bit harsh. It was wet when I climbed it, so maybe that influenced my experience. I'll change it to one star.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 14, 2012

I was amazed, after doing Bolt Line and Cold Turkey, how many bolts there were on the slab section of this climb.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Bolt Line and Cold Turkey are taller, with longer slab sections, hence the bolts could be more spaced out. Student Loan's slab portion is shorter and closer to the ground. Probably when I bolted it, I was balancing ground fall potential vs. having one more bolt and having them kind of close together. We frown on bolting with ground fall potential at Rumney.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 16, 2012

Oh, I'm not complaining. I was just surprised by the contrast :p
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 3, 2013

A few weeks ago I had taken the fall after the last clip, figured it out, said "damn, oh well, next time for sure", and effortlessly made the final movies to the crag top.

Well, next time came around and I floundered! To the point where I couldn't even figure out how to make it to the anchors. I usually see my blunder after sitting for a second but this one made me tuck my tail. Even after aiding to the anchor, I couldn't see the move this time. Just smear above the roof as you bust straight up from the deep horizontals above? or is there a trick to make it feel the grade?
By S. Neoh
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

WARNING, Onsight Spoiler -

I am quite short so my way may not work for everyone. There is a key left hand hold about straight up from the last bolt if I remember correctly. The last time I was on the route, a kind soul had ticked it so it was easy to spot. There is of course the big high foothold over the roof off to the right. What I do is use the ticked left hand hold, high right foot, smear left foot on almost nothing, right hand up to a small but good crimp below the top and then pop the left hand (or right, I do not recall exactly) to a shallowly dished hold over the top, above the anchors. Be careful, the hold over the top remains wet for a day or two after rain. On redpoint attempt, I was very surprised when my hand came flying off after I thought I had the "clipping jug". A nice fall but safe but only if your belayer does not suck in all the slack and slam your knee caps into the roof :) I was lucky to have a skilled and alert belayer to catch my surprise fall.
Yeah, I would not argue with a grade of .11b for this climb. Mark is keeping us honest and our inflated egos in check.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 4, 2013

Thanks! That sounds about what I imagined it should be but couldn't quite seem to make it work. I tossed a few desperate hucks to the lip only to peel off from the dampness. I told myself I was better than throwing for it but couldn't put it together, hah! I'm stubborn and will be back soon. :)
By superkick
From: West Hartford, CT
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Why such low stars? I thought pullign through the roof and the final moves before the anchors were fantastically fun.
By Zane Dordai
Aug 22, 2013

Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Turning the roof may be hard, but clipping that bolt just above the roof is very difficult. Perhaps it's tougher if you're tall because you're so scrunched up under that roof, but I found this climb WAY harder than the 11a it's given in the book.
By losbill
Jul 13, 2015

Have a good belayer.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About