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Broken Drum, The T 
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Stud Puppet 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Gary Wright
Page Views: 46
Submitted By: Bingman on Oct 14, 2008

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Description 

This is a great route with a challenging sequence, followed by a very hard move, and then easy climbing to the chains. The climb goes up a face to the left of a gigantic dihedral (or in the dihedral, which seems to make more sense), and then it traverses left through steep climbing to a small roof that leads left. The climbing below this roof is technical but well-protected by a bolt on the face.

The crux of the entire route is a very difficult move where you attempt to exit the roof out left while on non-existent and somewhat slippery feet - lunging for a Thank God, big flake. It was a very difficult, desperate, and dynamic move for me at 5'10".

Location 

This route is to the right of the broken drum, starting on the other (right) side of the pillar. Look for a distinctive sharp looking roof that tapers off to the left. Route finishes on the same chains as the Broken Drum.

Protection 

All the hard moves are protected by bolts or pins. Bring a SR - it all protects well. It uses the same anchors as Broken Drum.


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