Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Stuck on V2
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Jul 8, 2012
. Tyler W
From Utah
Joined Jul 8, 2012
140 points
Jul 8, 2012
Climbing for just a few weeks? Keep at it and focus on climbing with silent feet and accuracy from all parts of your body. Think about the route before you leave the ground as well. Ty Morrison-Heath
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Mar 22, 2011
1,985 points
Jul 8, 2012
Ive been stuck on V2 for....15 years. Keep at it tenpins
Joined Jan 29, 2007
5 points
Jul 8, 2012
It took me several months to get to V2, and a lot longer to get comfortably past it. You're doing fine. Also, don't burn yourself by just looking for harder and harder grades; it's a good way to get frustrated once your progress begins to plateau. Enjoy the ride. I still enjoy climbing easy stuff just as much as things at my limit, just in a different way. Carl Sherven
Joined Dec 30, 2007
160 points
Jul 8, 2012
Tyler PC wrote:
...I think a big part of it might be shoddy footwork, but I'm not quite sure what to change.

Sounds like you do know what to change...your footwork. Practice footwork on routes below your limit. Place your foot, and once it hits the hold, use it without readjusting. Really concentrate on precision and balance. When moving to the next hold, really concentrate on making upward progress with your feet. It's also sometimes useful to get on some slabby boulder problems that you can do without your hands. There are plenty of other things you can do to work on technique, but this is at least a start.
Ryan Nevius
From Estes Park, Colorado
Joined Dec 29, 2010
824 points
Jul 8, 2012
Stop looking at numbers and climb what looks cool to you. That will help with any mental issues. So many people create plateaus in their head. When I stopped looking at numbers and just bouldered I went from V-4 to v-7 in a few months with out even knowing it. Enjoying the moment is more important than any grade. I would touch on footwork but it has already been said. s.price
From PS,CO
Joined Dec 1, 2010
1,018 points
Jul 9, 2012
Quit bouldering and climb trad. And then talk about how much bouldering sucks on JasonT
Joined Aug 4, 2008
60 points
Jul 9, 2012
It's probably the fact that you think "dyno moves" are going to help you. When I used to climb in the gym a lot and do a lot of pullups I was stuck at V2 too. Try to climb static and outside as much as possible. Your technique will get better and as your hands get stronger you will probably progress fairly quickly.

There's all sorts of advice that will help you get better: stay close to the rock by opening your hips or flagging and drop kneeing, realize that you really have to crimp shitty holds, toe down with your big toe primarily unless you are flagging or heel hooking, keep your arms straight or relaxed till the moment of pull, etc... But I think in general it is just good to remember that you don't need to be a beast, you just need to have good contact strength, core, and technique. (now if you are talking about pushing into the V8 range, you have to do that AND be a beast. And not fat.)
Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Joined Feb 2, 2009
80 points
Jul 10, 2012
You have been bouldering for a few weeks and are at v2. Nothin wrong there. I climbed v2ish for a few years.

Over the winter I would go to the gym once a week and climb till I couldn't, had to leave due to "responsabilities", or the gym closing, usually 4-6 hours. I didn't focus on grades so much as climbing what seemed fun to me, and I would always work on stuff that was way above me. I shot up three grades by mid/late spring. I still have a hard time on really overhung stuff, but that isn't what I find fun anyway.

I also rest a bit or call it quits for the day if something hurts that isn't supposed to, you'll know it when it happens, and it will.

In the end I was climbing in the gym and grades don't mean shit cause setters grade it what they think it is.

Climb on,
From Topsfield, MA
Joined Dec 27, 2008
0 points
Jul 10, 2012
My gosh, MP is full of a bunch of weak nancies. I'd quit while you're ahead IMHO. You're just wasting your time and greasing up holds with your overchalk using self. Your lack of skill is truly an inconvenience to everyone else at the crag/boulderfield and it would be greatly appreciated if you'd just pick up swimming or something.
P.S. If you decide to continue climbing climb with wooden clogs - the rubber from climbing shoes (and surely your incompetant footwork) makes the rocks look ugly and climbing barefoot is just gonna make the rock slimy and slick.

P.S. Welcome to Mountain Project. Please note that the above is the typical banter of the community so please disregard any and all statements that aren't supportive or are contradictory.

I personally believe that the majority of the population, that is in decent shape, has the ability to climb v3/4 without focusing on strength training. The key right now is to focus on your technique and footwork. Do not expel too much energy with each move, do not overgrip, and remember to BREATHE! Climb on anything and everything, just always be safe and don't push your physical ability too hard, too fast or you may end up injured. Good luck!
Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
15 points
Jul 10, 2012
What most people don't realize when they first start bouldering is that it is hard. Check out a V scale in conjuction with a YDS scale. You'll find that even the lower section of the V scale is probably correlative with cruxes that you can't do or are only starting to do on roped routes. Stick with it. You haven't been doing it long enough to have hit a plateau yet (provided that you have only been doing it for a few weeks). It takes a while to make body positioning, gripping holds, and footwork to become non-intuitive. It takes even longer for tendons and muscles to become accustomed to the stresses that bouldering puts on them; years sometimes. Don't overdo it. You can injure yourself bouldering (arguably) worse and quicker than with other disciplines of climbing. Hang in there. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
703 points
Nov 14, 2013
The journey to sending whether horribly hard or walking easy, are the aspects of climbing that I enjoy more of these days. Anyway your not stuck, just progressing at a pace that may not be recognizable until later. Your pace will improve than drop, than improve again and this cycle will continue forever! Just don't forget to have fun. Bob Lee
Joined Oct 26, 2013
0 points
Nov 14, 2013
Give up clay meier
Joined Dec 24, 2008
340 points
Nov 15, 2013
The original post is gone so I'm kind of guessing at what it said. I'll mimic what most of the real posts have said, you haven't hit your peak, it's just that bouldering's hard, and you're just getting started. The advice below comes from a pretty crap boulderer so take it with a grain of salt.

Work on technique, good footwork and body position are important, and only become moreso as the routes get harder. One project I was on a few weeks back I was trying to compensate for crap footwork by using really stupid technique. I'm thankful that a buddy called me on it, as the good footwork version worked quickly. The quiet feet recommendation is a good one.

Give your body time to adjust, especially if you're going for big throws, or hard crimps. Your support structure isn't really designed to take this kind of loading, and easing into it seems to decrease chances of injuries (I've watched a lot of strong high school kids join my gym, head straight to V6, blow a tendon and quit climbing).

Also, working both ends of my plateaus seems to help me break through them.

Working the harder routes will give you some idea of what you need to work on, and will start to develop the mechanics you need to work harder problems. My goal here is to get through the problems, and refine as much as I can.

Working on stuff that's just a little easy will allow you to improve technique. For me I try to work these climbs until they're polished. Work on climbing that kinda hard for you until the route flows completely smoothly. Try doing every move static. Try using only the small feet. Try skipping holds.
From Rohnert Park, CA
Joined Sep 23, 2011
0 points

Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.