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East Meets West T 
Grace Note S 
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Rod Serling Crack T 
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Steve Martin's Face T 
Stuck in Another Direction T,TR 
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Will To Power, The T 

Stuck in Another Direction 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, TR, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Goodman, Umbel
Season: Morning Shade, afternoon sun
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 17, 2014

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This is a really fun face climb that branches off to the right from Burning Calves. Climb BC up to the alcove stance just below its crux, and make a sometimes reachy traverse right. At a great horizontal, place as much gear as you want, then bust into the crux– classic NRG highsteps and reaches, followed by some bizarrely crimpy deadpoints. The moves stay sustained and techy all the way to the top, and the gear is spaced, though it is excellent and safe.

It is very easy to set up a TR on this after climbing Burning Calves; you'll need a 2 or 3 camalot for a directional, though, under a large capstone roof.


Branches right from Burning Calves.


Fingers-sized cams.

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