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Stuck a Flute in My 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Phillips L. Douglas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,318
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Aug 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Looking down from the anchors

Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>


This is the 5th pitch variation on Stifflers Mom. Start to the left of the anchor and climb straight up.

If you don't get this name rent American Pie. Named so because after putting Stifflers Mom in from the ground up we rap bolted this line.


About 9 bolts. I forget.


This is the 5th pitch variation of Stifflers Mom, see topo

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By Shaun Greene
Oct 21, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sweet!! Cool line, Bold moves up perfect granite.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Varied, great climbing with slab being the main theme.

Felt like at least solid 5.10 on a warm and humid September day. I counted 12 bolts.
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a really good variation to pitch 5, and it feels more direct than the "original" way. Surprisingly, it had some of the same kinds of moves as the "original" way too. Just a bit easier.. Also, that 3rd bolt is right where it needs to be. You just can't see it from the belay.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 19, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Back-clean the 1st bolt and clip the 3rd or 4th long (can't remember, it will be obvious).
Great moves, felt like a baby version of the regular route, the corner is a bit easier, bit shorter, bit more acute and easier to work with.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sustained and tenuous in the dihedral. I was wishing I had 1-2" more reach for some of those clips.
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Oct 23, 2016
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This might be one of the best slab pitches I've done in little at this grade. So much fun!

I also counted 12 bolts. No need for gear on this pitch, just draws.

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