REI Community
Coal Pit Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angering The Angered T 
Buenaventura , The T 
Coalpit Connection T 
Direct North Face T 
DoggyStyle T 
House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stuck a Flute in My 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Phillips L. Douglas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,433
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Aug 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down from the anchors

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the 5th pitch variation on Stifflers Mom. Start to the left of the anchor and climb straight up.

    If you don't get this name rent American Pie. Named so because after putting Stifflers Mom in from the ground up we rap bolted this line.


    About 9 bolts. I forget.


    This is the 5th pitch variation of Stifflers Mom, see topo

    Comments on Stuck a Flute in My Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Shaun Greene
    Oct 21, 2007
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Sweet!! Cool line, Bold moves up perfect granite.
    By Shaft
    From: Salt Lake City
    Sep 13, 2009
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Varied, great climbing with slab being the main theme.

    Felt like at least solid 5.10 on a warm and humid September day. I counted 12 bolts.
    By triznuty
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Sep 15, 2009
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This is a really good variation to pitch 5, and it feels more direct than the "original" way. Surprisingly, it had some of the same kinds of moves as the "original" way too. Just a bit easier.. Also, that 3rd bolt is right where it needs to be. You just can't see it from the belay.
    By Boissal
    From: Small Lake, UT
    Jun 19, 2012
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Back-clean the 1st bolt and clip the 3rd or 4th long (can't remember, it will be obvious).
    Great moves, felt like a baby version of the regular route, the corner is a bit easier, bit shorter, bit more acute and easier to work with.
    By Aerili
    From: Los Alamos, NM
    Jul 29, 2013
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Sustained and tenuous in the dihedral. I was wishing I had 1-2" more reach for some of those clips.
    By Kyle Goupil
    From: SLC, UT
    Oct 23, 2016
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This might be one of the best slab pitches I've done in little at this grade. So much fun!

    I also counted 12 bolts. No need for gear on this pitch, just draws.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About