BETA PHOTO: Western slopes of Mount Stuart from Ingalls lake. ...
The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.
To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.
For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.
Weather station 20.3 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt Stuart
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt Stuart
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt Stuart :
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
WI2 Ice, Alpine, 9415'
Featured Route For Mt Stuart
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Washington
: Central-East Cascades, Wena...
: ... : Mt Stuart
From the notch above the Stuart Glacier, 11(ish, depends on how you do it) pitches of low/mid 5th class with one move of 5.7 will take you to the base of the Gendarme. This involves a lot of fun, exposed, easy climbing on bomber rock. Despite this, the best pitches are on the Gendarme. Above the base of the pillar, are two crux 5.9 pitches. The first one is a steep fingers and hands dihedral with good rests between harder sections of climbing. From here, traverse to the offwidth and grunt up...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington
From: Leavenworth, WA
Jul 17, 2016
Trevor, I think you mean if you're approaching from the North/Leavenworth side.