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Strychnine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & James Dickson
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Pete belaying George from the top of the first pit...

Description 

P1: Start up a small dike behind a large oak tree to a bolt 10’ up. Continue up the dike to the large flake/corner with gear. Continue up the face placing gear to a bolt. Continue over the bulge placing gear past another small headwall to a third bolt. Continue up the slab to a tree and walk left to the anchor on Suicide Wall. 100’
P2: Walk right from the anchor along a ledge. Pull the bulge and follow the slab to a second head wall. Finish at the pine tree on top. 40'

Location 

Behind a large tree look for a bolt and a right facing flake.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Strychnine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Casey Bald on Strychnine
Casey Bald on Strychnine
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Dickson follows Strychnine. The blocky corner ...
Jim Dickson follows Strychnine. The blocky corner ...

Comments on Strychnine Add Comment
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By chris magness
Jun 23, 2012

This is an excellent line for the grade. However, if the raven is around, it might be best to choose another line!

If it weren't for the finish and the raven, Strychnine would be a 4-star route.
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fabulous route! The gear is a bit fiddly, but with extra small sized cams can be backed up in key spots. Highly recommended as the best 5.9 on the cliff.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

EDGE for constant climbing I would agree but for exposure defiantly The Arete
By chinos
Mar 16, 2013

Great as one long pitch!
By ben smith
Mar 26, 2013

raven nightmare at the top! nearly jumped out of my skin...glad i slung the little trees at the top
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The ravens were just starting to rebuild their nest a couple weeks ago, and it sounds like they are getting ready to start their family. It would probably be best to have a voluntary ban on climbing Strychnine, Orthanc, and Adventure Punks until the chicks have left sometime mid/late Summer. The birds don't seem to bother climbers on the next couple routes to either side, so Suicide Wall and Chinoo should be OK.

Although Strychnine is probably the best .9 at the cliff, there are a bunch of others almost as good. I can't wait to see where the turkey vultures nest; you haven't experienced Longstack until you pull onto a ledge and hear an other-worldly hiss echo out of a deep fissure.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 26, 2013

Ravens and t Vultures ?? nice...crazy ass , smart birds
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 26, 2013

Ravens are way cooler than peregrines and if you piss them off they will remember you for years. The most I have ever been freaked out by a bird was when I happened upon a turkey vulture nest on Mt Tom in RI. Freaked the liver out of me.
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It's quite a place when the full aviary is in action. Besides ravens and vultures, I've already seen red tailed hawk out there this year, and wild turkeys are not uncommon (the birds, not the alcohol, though I wouldn't be surprised to see that out there too.)

Last year, a shamanic practitioner asked me to make her a hand drum and incorporate the spirit of her Raven guide in it. I waited until the birds had left for the season, then led Strychnine for the first time as the sun was setting and arrived at the nest minutes after the sun went behind the mountains. I took one pine stick from the nest, which became the beater handle for her drum. From Raven with love.
By Leigh Kesler
Jun 3, 2017

There was no rappel anchor at the top anywhere that my partner and I could find, so we donated a cordelette and a couple rap rings to a tree that looked like it used to be the anchor.

Awesome climb! Still a bit damp in places, but fantastic pitch (strung them together with double 60m ropes).

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