Strong bolts don't always make good anchors!!

Fixe Rings by themselves are not bad. What pisses me off is coming upon these , placed at the same height, 12-18" apart from each other. This twists the bejesus out of your rope no matter how much you fuck with it. Really, you should place one low and another bolt about a foot higher with a chain hanging to equalize them.

I often come across this setup and end up lowering off one of them instead of both just to save my poor rope.

It's a piss poor attempt to re-invent the wheel. If you want two bolts at the same height, have two quicklinks hanging off each. Done.

I am well aware that there are about a dozen better options on the market, or configurations that can be used. I know that route developers know this too. So why do I keep seeing these god damn things?

I'd take cold shuts over these, 1/4"s with a American Triangle, or a giant wad of tat. Shitty anchors suck, sure, but they rarely fail and tend to be set up in a way that doesn't twist the rope.

TL:DR version, go buy some chain retard.

Can you attach a photo? The way your post is phrased, it sounds like you're complaining about top roping directly through a rap anchor...

I agree with you in principle: anchors should be configured properly. But you'll rap off a single bolt just to avoid twisting your rope? Yikes.

rap those bomber bolts and your rope will be spared! but yes somewhat annoying

I get it now...you're lowering off of a rap anchor. Doh!

It's worse when lowering but still twists the rope when you pull it after a rappel. The rolofson, Trout, Miller style of using mussey hooks is superior to anything that is actually marketed for climbing IMO.

I do put up my own routes. That is precisely why I get pissed when I see others doing it the dumb way.

Steel ovals are really nice for that kind of thing, cheap and easy.

nicelegs wrote:I do put up my own routes. That is precisely why I get pissed when I see others doing it the dumb way.

+1. Unless rock quality dictates it those things should never go in level and a foot apart. They'll corkscrew the shit of your ropes even on rap. But Jeebus forbid you'd point out that there's a proper way to do things...

nicelegs wrote: Fixe Rings by themselves are not bad. What pisses me off is coming upon these , placed at the same height, 12-18" apart from each other. This twists the bejesus out of your rope no matter how much you fuck with it. Really, you should place one low and another bolt about a foot higher with a chain hanging to equalize them. I often come across this setup and end up lowering off one of them instead of both just to save my poor rope. It's a piss poor attempt to re-invent the wheel. If you want two bolts at the same height, have two quicklinks hanging off each. Done. I am well aware that there are about a dozen better options on the market, or configurations that can be used. I know that route developers know this too. So why do I keep seeing these god damn things? I'd take cold shuts over these, 1/4"s with a American Triangle, or a giant wad of tat. Shitty anchors suck, sure, but they rarely fail and tend to be set up in a way that doesn't twist the rope. TL:DR version, go buy some chain retard.

YES, YES, YES!!! No doubt!! Every time I use one of these setups, I think to myself "Why Lord, hast thou bestowed upon me such a sh*tty, rope twisting setup??"

The thing I can't figure out is that those damn Fixes rigs are hella expensive too. Why not just use two standard hangers and hang some etched, painted chain from the hanger?

Badda bing: Cheap.
Badda boom: easy to upgrade.
Badda bing: Multiple clip in points to help with organization during belay changeovers and rap rigging
Badda boom: No rope twisting!!

Rob Duncan wrote:rap those bomber bolts and your rope will be spared! but yes somewhat annoying

No, rapping still twists your rope when you pull it. Maybe not as bad, but still.

I agree there are better ways to build anchors but what does this have to do with bolt strength?

J C Wilks wrote:I agree there are better ways to build anchors but what does this have to do with bolt strength?

Plenty of times I read about anchor replacement initiatives and it's always about old or rusty or weak bolts. Rarely do I hear about anchor replacement because someone built a nice strong shitty anchor.

Ryan Nevius wrote:I get it now...you're lowering off of a rap anchor. Doh!

No you don't get it.

New Euro standard is bolts aligned vertically not horizontally.

Pretty dumb to place anchor that could be 100% ideal in a way that makes it 100% snafu.

coldfinger wrote: No you don't get it. New Euro standard is bolts aligned vertically not horizontally. Pretty dumb to place anchor that could be 100% ideal in a way that makes it 100% snafu.

Actually, I do get it. I couldn't visualize the original complaint. I agree with the OP. Sit down, bud.

John Butler wrote:"I do put up my own routes" Then fix it :-)

John, I have a list. What do you have?

Do you see no value in pointing out this problem to developers or future developers? One person or a group of people should not have to go and pay to fix mistakes that never needed to be made.

i have installed pairs of those ring anchors in the past and agree that they will twist the rope when lowering. Especially if the rings bind against the rock. Not a whole lot you can do to fix the setup except put two quicklinks to each. They do work better as rap anchors.

Mussey hooks suck ass. Use climbing gear for climbing anchors. For instance: Climbtech makes very affordable steel biners. Less visual impact and, wait for it... They're rated equipment!

Joe Stark wrote:Mussey hooks suck ass. Use climbing gear for climbing anchors. For instance: Climbtech makes very affordable steel biners. Less visual impact and, wait for it... They're rated equipment!

Joe, you live in Iowa, your point is invalid.

Ideally, sure, rated gear is cool. With enough steel, as is the case with mussy hooks or even a regular chain, I tend to worry a little less. BTW, they do have a safe working load of 2000lbs. Of course no uiaa so the lawyers do make them say you can't use them for people.

I for one am in full support of auto belay devices being installed atop every route outdoors. This would solve your problems too. You can be the first to install them at your local crag! Join us!

Mussy Hooks are awesome when I'm sport climbing.

Ran into this sweet rapp setup this weekend:

Yes the top bolt was 3/8" - bomber

Iowa has really fantastic off-the-grid sport climbing. It's just not available to the general public.

And Mussey hooks really are jank.