Strong Arm Tactics
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Doug makes the stem to start the power crux sectio...
This is an interesting, varied, and entertaining route that may push you at the grade...especially if you are not taller than the average guy (5'10"). The upper face has some exquisite moderate face climbing.
Start on a challenging slab. At 5'10" with a +2 ape index, you can barely reach up and left to a small edge. Pull aboard with a crummy left foot and then a somewhat better right smear. Stay in balance and reach a decent edge. A funky lean and an awkward stem keep you barely there. Fight upward on less-than-adequate nubbins and smears. This lower slab feels like the technical crux of the route. Gain a big ledge and regroup.
Clip the bolt out right across the gap. Now, you have to make an airy stem out right. You can clip the 8th bolt before you have to commit. If you are tall, you can reach the decent flake. If not, you'll have to do a lieback off a marginal edge, pull your left foot aboard, and reach for the decent flake. Now the fight is on. Scratch your way into a more stable spot and a horizontal hand jam crack. That is the physical crux.
Finally, you get to enjoy some fine face moves that feel reminiscent of Hallett Peak or The Crags face climbs. There is a spot in the middle of the upper face where you have to engage yourself again. Finally, at the last bolt, move left to the arete for a final bit of exposure.
You may need a rest after this climb.
14 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor with Fixe rings.
Doug on the fine upper face.
Doug fights through the thin start.
By Todd Ra
Aug 26, 2016
This climb is fantastic. So much fun! Don't be deterred by the "tall person" start. I'm 5'7" and found it pretty straightforward and doable. Get on this guy!