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Strict Scrutiny 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Justin Hayes
Page Views: 2,628
Submitted By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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This clip is a bit hard, though not as hard as the...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.


Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.


8 fixed draws to the anchors.

Photos of Strict Scrutiny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Redpoint crux move of Dark Star (for me at least) ...
Redpoint crux move of Dark Star (for me at least) ...

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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems.
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Sep 27, 2010

Some add'l beta:

Traverse into SS after 7th draw on DS (from the good rest jug). To do so prior, would probably merit 14a.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 30, 2013

i changed the grade on this since it is pretty well agreed on these days that it's just shy of 5.14...
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I probably agree with 13d, but ten people have recorded an ascent of Strict Scrutiny on, and all have given it 14a.
By Brian Nugent
Aug 14, 2013

By Joe Terravecchia
Aug 26, 2013

I've only been on this once. Great climbing but it seemed soft even at 13d. Surprised that so many people call it 14a.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I think the grade discrepancy might say more about than it does about the route itself. :)
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I heard that a foothold at the top rest broke recently making the grade a little more stiff. However, having just sent it, I'd say for sure it's still 13d. There is a key rest just right of the 2nd to last bolt, with good right hand crimp and a "thumb up" sloper pinch for the left (this rest is bypassed in the above video). The top stand up rest at the last bolt where people used to camp out for several minutes no longer seems to be good for more than a shake or two.

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