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Stress Management 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matt Christensen, Andy Fitz 1988
Page Views: 2,044
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Ed Mosshart leads Stress Management.

  • Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    [The pillar Stress Management ascended toppled over on April 28, 2017.]

    When first led in 1988, Stress Management featured three fixed pins (one of which was a tied off knifeblade), RPs finagled into imaginary fissures, and some stout runouts, including one through the crux. It was also only rated 5.9.

    Over the years bolts have continued to appear on the face, to the point where there's now considerably less stress to manage.

    Not that this is a bad thing. Stress Management is a great climb made better by modern protection. It fully deserves the greater attention it now receives. Just remember that when you cast off on the crux move and ponder where the bolt is, it used to be a #3 RP waiting to catch a screamer.

    The climb starts with a truly difficult 5.7 move, a boulder problem getting past the initial bulge of Entrance Exam (5.7). (Don't complain--it used to be rated 5.6.) The move protects well with a medium Camalot. Catch your breath, step right onto the pillar face, and place a good cam in a horizontal crack below a small roof (a #1 Flexible Friend works well). Turn the roof, reach high for a fragile-looking jug, and clip a fixed pin if you want, or skip it and clip the bomber bolt just a half-move above. Dance your way up edges large and small on great rock. The crux comes near the top.

    Protection 

    Medium Camalot, #1 Flexible Friend, 1 pin and 4 bolts to rap hangers.



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    By geoff georges
    From: Seattle, Wa.
    Apr 28, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    CONDITION REPORT 
    THIS ROUTE IS ALSO ON THE COLUMN THAT COLLAPSED ON 4/28/17 RIP.
    Sadly I was going to climb it last weekend after doing it about 13 years back with some cams, but ran out of time.
    By Jon Nelson
    Administrator
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Apr 28, 2017

    The column fell down?

    Yikes. I think Geoff that we all should be glad you did not get on it recently. Not that you're so heavy, but if the thing was just about to go, it might have needed only a tiny extra torque to get it falling.
    By geoff georges
    From: Seattle, Wa.
    Apr 28, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Jon, I just heard someone climbed Price of complacency just last night, do they get the last ascent ?
    By Nick Drake
    From: Newcastle, WA
    May 11, 2017

    If you clip the chains in the rubble can you still tick the route?

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