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Stress Fracture 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: Rob Duncan on Sep 15, 2008

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prominent hand crack/roof route to the right, about fifty feet, of funky bolt. look for the left facing dihedral that starts about fifteen feet off the deck. this dihedral, with a good hand crack in it, goes for about fifty feet until you see a huge roof that takes big gear (maybe eight or ten foot roof). fear not, for there abound plenty of feet and patina crimps on the left wall adjacent to and under the roof. continue above the roof for fifty feet or so, trending leftward, until you can clip some fixe rings around a bunch of webbing slung on a flake. bring your second up from there. Beware of the first fifteen feet, however, as it is strenuous bouldery climbing with gear you wish was better. We found this to be the crux. can be protected with yellow TCU and small wired stoppers.


about fifty feet right of 'funky bolt', the line with a huge wide roof.


double rack C4s from .5 to 2, one each 3, 4, 5 C4. some small TCUs or aliens, blue to red, (yellow especially helpful for the first bit) you could probably put a #6 in the roof if you had one. one set of stoppers.

Photos of Stress Fracture Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The intimidating but not so bad roof.
The intimidating but not so bad roof.

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By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This route is really fun, but probably doesn't see much traffic or just needs some tlc to clean it up a bit. Really hard start for me but then the rest is just really fun. PG-13 probably comes from the start and after the roof is some lichen covered thin moves.

Put this on your moderate roof crack list!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 16, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very difficult start. Yellow alien up high (work the feet). Get in a marginal hand jam, place a #2, and then you can completely pull the start.

For the roof, place a #3 at the beginning. And then although it looks scary, trust the face holds, and move out to the lip of the roof. At the lip, place a #4. Bump it as you move up! Otherwise, the rope will get stuck between the cam and the rock. I did that with a #5, and it was a royal hassle to free the rope. Save some #0.75s and #1s for the top. You can also slab traverse (sketchy) to the bush anchor to your left after exiting the roof.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 16, 2013

This route would be primo if it was clean. Despite the munge, certainly worth doing. Regular traffic can give it the complete makeover it deserves.
By Mike Sullivan
From: Durango, CO
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The low crux requires awkward and strenuous groveling, or else this would be a 4 star climb. The big roof is super fun, and rather exciting to exit.
By Kurt Howes
Jun 14, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Good route, desperate start that could deserve a harder rating than 10.c. I post because I couldn't find the chain anchors and had to traverse up and left to a slung horn and do a double rap. Are there chains? Seems like this line deserves its own anchors because it's apparent others have dealt with the same shinanegans that I did. Gotta love those moderate roof traverses. I plugged a bomber #3 and didn't need anything bigger. Do it, and do a little vegetation cleaning while your at it.
By Marlin Thorman
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Lots of dirt, leaves, spiderwebs and pine needles but still a great route. Needs more traffic to clean things up and it would help to have a bolted anchor up top. Rapped off the above mentioned slung horn with double ropes. The start is way harder than 10c but it protects fine. I got in a great Metolius Master cam #2 (yellow) up as high as I could go before it got hard. Overall the climb is definitely worth doing.

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