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To be continued
to the left of tech-9, right of full auto
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guide says 11d, I'm inclined to agree; felt significantly harder than M11 a few lines to the right. Hard start with moves up tiny crimps (crux) to a nice jug and two closely spaced bolts. Eases up a bit and then second crux moving up and right to the obvious hueco in the patina (really hard to reach it statically, more fun to deadpoint or dyno, depending on your height). Thankfully eases up past there.
Apr 13, 2015
Loved the bouldery opener with a hand traverse on tiny crimps and no feet. I heel hooked the starting holds to make my way to the $ jug. From there it's basically Tec-9 but a little more delicate. Don't expect there to be chalk on the little crimps, you really gotta feel around for the grooves which just makes it that much more fun. I won't speculate on grade but once I knew exactly where the holds were, the start went like clockwork.