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Elephant Rock - North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beware of Nesting Egos T 
Just Say Go T,S 
Prepare for Soaring Seagulls T,S 
Strawberry Jam T 
Where Egos Sore T 

Strawberry Jam 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Lowe 1960's
Page Views: 2,249
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Aug 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Maura Hahnenberger on Strawberry Jam.

Description 

This is a great route that probably doesn't get done a whole lot. There are two starts. One directly below the crack which is probably 5.10+ and protected by a bolt, and one climbing over the white spot just to the right, 5.8R. After the crux beginning just follow the wide crack to the top of Elephant Rock. The climbing is really fun with huge buckets all around to avoid using actual offwidth techniques in the crack. The best descent is to walk off the back side of Elephant rock or rappel near Rye Crisp if people are not on those routes.

Location 

In between Beware of Nesting Egos and The Pygmies Got Stoned.

Protection 

To make it not so runout you would want to bring a set of cams with a few extra wide pieces. Also, be sure to save a few cams from #1 camalot to #3 camalot sizes for the belay.


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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 28, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

I seem to (dimly) recall that its a bit R or PG rated to get to the crack, even though there's a bolt for pro? Great route.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 17, 2013

A most peculiar start that's not easy to figure out by looking at it.

Beta Alert!


Go to the right of the bolt, work your way up, find a hidden crimp to reach the crack with your left hand.

Don't go to the left of the bolt. Tried that variation several times at full extension and took several 10-footers.
By DennisL
From: Bishop, CA
May 11, 2014

Right start is slabby, harder than 5.8, definitely PG13. After the start, the crack is 5.8 and then eases off. Don't bother unless you're just seeking spice.
By Sean C
From: SLC
Sep 17, 2016

Good route. Pretty much 5.8 after the hard start. Can't speak for the right variation but the direct line is definitely PG-13/R after clipping the bolt. Slab beneath you could definitely ruin your weekend/season if you fall.

Beta: I started to go right at the bolt (as Charlie states) as the holds looked a lot better but it felt way more insecure reaching left to the crack. Climbed down and went left of the bolt through some descent feet and a sweet undercling to reach the crack. Probably 10+/11-. YMMV
By Jarrod LaFountain
Jul 31, 2017

Did the "R" white-spot start. The slab up to the white-spot certainly felt 5.10ish, so I recommend feeling pretty comfy on COR slab. Then pulling the white-spot roof and getting into the crack truly felt 5.8. BETA: great holds atop the white-spot and an easy mantle gets you up, then a good right-facing side-pull gains you the crack. Upwards was great fun climbing offering OW if you want, patina jugs if you don't.

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