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Strawberry Jam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Long, July 1972
Page Views: 2,144
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

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Rob, cruising the upper section while his belay sc...


This route is located on the left side of the east face, just right of an obvious chimney system which diagonals up and right.

A thin start leads to a ledge (the outer edge of the chimney) where a bridge/stem across to a nice hand crack continues to the summit. Rap anchors located on the opposite side of the rock atop the Northwest Chimney route.

This is a nice route with good gear that's only minutes from the campground. Take care with your technique and try not to leave any "jam" behind.


pro to 3"

Photos of Strawberry Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob, working the gear in the crux.
Rob, working the gear in the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stretching it out!
Stretching it out!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rob, looking into the crux.
Rob, looking into the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the top of "Strawberry Jam". ...
BETA PHOTO: Climber at the top of "Strawberry Jam". ...

Comments on Strawberry Jam Add Comment
Show which comments
By Murf
Nov 6, 2003

As a budding 5.9 leader, I thought getting good gear and getting established in the crack proper was heady. I've seen other 5.9 type of folks struggle in this same spot. I'd be tempted to give sort of a Bartlett PG on this, "gear may be difficult to place".
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 17, 2003

Accessing the upper crack is much easier if one climbs slightly right of the main crack and then cut's back left at a horizontal. Getting established in the upper crack is easily protected with a small nut and cam by stemming the gap; above a good hand sized crack leads to the top.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun, but presently plenty of birdy PooPoo is on the upper section. This detracts a bit from the overall experience.
By EricT
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 24, 2006

The bird poo mainly washed away and doesn't interfere with the lead.
Great fun!
Apr 8, 2009

The placement in question is 6ish feet above your last piece, and 10ish feet above a ledge, so it's fairly crucial. It's deep and around or behind a bit of a corner; getting it and checking it is challenging. At 5'7", I was maxxed out at the highest place I could stem the gap - shorter people may well be SOL to see/place at all. I ended up downclimbing to the ledge to check the piece, at first.

The step-across move itself was trivial, once I'd spent all my gas getting the piece. The upper section, above the step-across move, is steeper than it looks!

Anchor = big gear, #4 or so.

Really worthwhile route - lots of climbing on it, from the first move onwards.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Jan 30, 2012

I just went for it straight up and into the crack after placing 2 cams from the gap (offsets worked GReAT... they seem to work great on a lot of route @ josh). Anyway. I pulled up just below the crack and then pitched off (and caught just before I plunged into the chimney gap below! Yikes. Have not fallen off a .9 in a loooong time... I think I was being a bit too casual ;)

I managed a fine anchor with 2x BD .75 and one BD .4

P.S. well worth climbing. Interesting/not your average route.
By Phil Esra
Apr 13, 2015

The comments are all pretty spot-on. Bad route for breaking into 5.9, I'd guess.

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