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Strategic Placement 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,489
Submitted By: Rafe on Aug 22, 2009

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a beautiful line with fun roof pulls on good holds...


The cruxes are pulling two roofs throughout this climb. The anchors are in a poor location for belaying at the top or top roping. If you choose to lower and top rope your second you'll need to clean several draws on the way down.


The next route encountered on the Eastern Block climbing an obvious bolted arete at the start.


9 bolts

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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This and it's alternate Displacement are both fun, good to use long slings for some clips and I think both are about 10b.
By ahd
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 2, 2015

I've lead Displacement - the right variation. Concur with geoff georges, fun and felt like a 10b. Displacement anchors are far to the right of the line, so you won't be able to collect the gear while rapelling. We had to a an extra top-rope run.

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