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Strangle Hold 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jess Johnson
Season: North-east facing
Page Views: 114
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 19, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A technical and beta-intensive boulder problem constitutes the first 3 bolts. I think it warrants V5. Don't be surprised if at first you feel like there aren't enough holds or feet- its cryptic down low. Above the third bolt you can enjoy mostly sinker pockets and generally good holds- its probably only 11a/b to the chains. This route is an easy tick at the grade- suss out the lower 9 move boulder problem and even someone with poor fitness could hang on to the finish. The climbing is enjoyable, but the rock is less than perfect.

Location 

You will find this route just to the right of Your Onus. It can be easily identified by spoting the "strangle hold" above the second bolt- a right-facing block with lots of brown glue visible on its right side.

Protection 

All bolts to a chain anchor.


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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 9, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Rock quality on this one is pretty good (by AF standards). Everything you need is solid, just watch out if you get a bit sloppy on the footwork. Like most routes here, with enough traffic, it will be super clean. As of 8/16, looks like someone has a project going for the extension. Looks sick!

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