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19 - New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Falcon T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

Strangers In the Night 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Donini, Rab Carrington, Bev Johnson, Steve Wunsch
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Bryan G on Mar 30, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Above the Electric Gully, in the center of the cliff, is large pillar. Wasp climbs the corner on the left side of this pillar, while Strangers in the Night ascends the right side. The crux fist crack is tucked away in a right facing corner and is not visible from the base of the cliff. As a result, this nice route sees little traffic.

The first pitch is the same as the Electric Gully. Climb steep knobs out of an alcove, past a bush, and then squeeze chimney past another bush. A variation (5.10) can be done by starting on the hand crack on the left wall and then moving through knobs up and right to get over into the chimney. Establish a belay in the gully below the obvious right-facing corner.

The second pitch climbs the burly fist crack in the corner to a ledge, and then more cracks to the summit. Like most climbs at New Diversions cliff, it is possible to link this into one long pitch but you will probably need an 80m rope or do some simulclimbing.

Protection 

Pro to 4" with extra 3" cams.


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