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Stranger Than Friction 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gary Taylor, Pat Contor, Susan Ashley, Nancy Cohn: 1988
Page Views: 2,319
Submitted By: grk10vq on Nov 13, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: stranger than friction.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Grab a quick warm-up and you'll be physically ready for Stranger than Friction. The rest is up to you.

A tendon bending start puts you in at awkward stance. A fast, five feet off the ground and you've found the route's physical crux, focus and a long reach will help break the freeze. Continue climbing over crisp, thin edges to a brief rest, angle right through the mental crux towards a fixed pin. An awkward exit gains a small rest and the anchor. A short route with a long feeling!


In the middle of the Green A Gully and approximately 30 feet up from Prepositional Phrase, sits Stranger than Friction. Follow the trail north into the gully from the Green A's sundeck, the route is second bolted slab from the left and has a low, under-cutting roof.


Three bolts, and a fixed pin lead to a heavily slung horn with quick links. Lower or Rappel the route.

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By tenesmus
Nov 14, 2007

I've looked for this before but couldn't find it. Where is it? Of course, I can't find Sensimila crack either...
By zoso
Dec 31, 2008

Why don't you ask Zoso. He knows the book backwards and forwards. Wonder if he actually climbs.
By tenesmus
Dec 31, 2008

3rd person dab
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Burly moves right off the start then thin face climbing on manky old bolts. What's not to love?
Bring a saw if you want to try the 11d neighbor, Surprise Beginning.
By Pete Spri
Jun 19, 2011

This route, though short, is fun and unique climbing. The granite is lipped/edged, so even though it's a slab, you are edging more than you are actually smearing... a fun change up for LCC slab.

The bolts are button-heads. There is one angled pin in a horizontal between the second and 3rd (last) bolt. It's slightly angled down, and though it seems secure, doesn't seem that deeply placed.
By Ryan Goslin
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a great route that could use an update....bolts one and four look solid but the second is a button head that spins and the piton could maybe be replaced (or if gear can be placed when its pulled that would be fine). I certainly didn't want to fall on either of them. Great dime edges and crimps past the crux start, just wish it was longer!!
By Nathan Smith
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 7, 2014

All 3 button-heads have been replaced with new stainless steel bolts and hangers.
By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Thanks for adding the new bolts. Great climb with an exciting second clip. Worth hopping on if you're heading down from the upper gully.

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