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Stand By Your Van T,S 
Star Spangled Dangle S 
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 
Tarzan S 
Tommy's 13b S 
Twin Cracks T 
Under Pressure S 
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Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 

Stranger Than Fiction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: BJ Sbarra, Josh Gross, Lynn Sanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: BJ Sbarra on Jun 17, 2009

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At the big holds....


Look for the two black bolt hangers at the start a few inches to the right of a long black streak. Make some interesting face moves past these, then up and left to more cracks and bolts. There are good gear placements between the bolts. Bring long slings, as the line wanders back and forth a bit.


Start about 50 feet up hill from Twin Cracks, 15 feet left of the old Dawson/Kennedy route Mad Arab.


In addition to quickdraws for the 5 bolts, most folks will want a small rack from .25" to 2". You can rap from the anchors with a single 60m rope.

Photos of Stranger Than Fiction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: BJ Sbarra on the FA.
BJ Sbarra on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping bolt 2, Carl P.
Clipping bolt 2, Carl P.

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By Lynn S
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun climbing the entire way, crux in the first couple of moves, with one other thoughtful section midway. This and Twin Cracks make for a nice duo of moderates, good warm-ups for the harder Grotto routes.

Plus by climbing at the Grotto Wall you can be in lots of tourists summer photos, pose well!
By Michael Plesser
Jul 26, 2013

Climbed the more obvious bolt line starting directly underneath the line. Probably 5.9. I did fine with 0-2 TCUs. A 1 c4 may have worked higher but seemed very unnecessary.

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