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Strange Medicine 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Mike Gray, Rob Bracey
Season: spring, summer, and fall
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Ronin Gray on Mar 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Bolted route that starts above the cave on the far left side of the wall. Scary start, because the first bolt is high and there is a good chance of yanking your belayer off the the ledge if you fall before clipping the first bolt. Bolted solo, on lead, so cry me a river, bitches....

Location 

Leftmost route on the wall, start oln the left side of a small cave in the face, climb jugs to clip the first bolt and gun for the top. With any luck, you won't have to contend with a rattlesnake in one of the clip holds (the one above the runout, of course). Rap or lower.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


Comments on Strange Medicine Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 11, 2013

While bolting solo is impressive, in the end a poorly bolted route on rock we all share does not benefit the community. Also why not add a belay bolt to remove to protect the belayer and remove the R-rating? Glad you're having fun out there though. Never been myself.
By Ronin Gray
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Feb 6, 2014

So you admit your critique comes from complete ignorance about the crag, the conditions and rock type?

Last time I checked, that made you an asshole.

The route has a run-out because it is, that's all. Didn't feel like I was under obligation to a climbing community that pays for none of my gear or drills, but which nonetheless seems to think it has the right to dictate bolt spacing, good style and ethics while demonstrating so little.

You don't wanna go bold, go over to the Pancake House, the Mine or stay in the gym. Putting it out there to start with is how we keep the community safe, is the reason for the database, right? Did you expect that every route in here would be okay to put a noob on and say "Go get 'er... totally safe... clips at the head and knees"?

If so the answer is simple: don't climb at the Shaman Wall or really, on any of my lines... most are adults only.

And until you have been to the area, try not to criticize the people who developed it or the routes. It just makes you look silly...
By Jimbo
Feb 6, 2014

Ronin,

First of all Hendrixson is not an asshole. He may be a bit too deeply mired in the sport climbing ethos these days but he's a good guy.

However, judging from the tenure of your comments when you posted the new route and your vehemence toward Hendrixson's post, you appear to be the asshole.

So you put up a poorly protected 5.8 route. Wow what a bad ass you are to all us bitches.

While I, with good reason, fully support your right to do routes in any style you see fit, you come off as an arrogant poseur thumping his own chest about a 35 foot 5.8 route.

Just saying.
By Ronin Gray
From: Smoke Hole Canyon
Feb 6, 2014

Hmmm... reading back over my original description, I find no place I was thumping my chest, but rather explaining how the route got bolted in the way it did.

Perhaps, to preserve the unsoiled condition of your undergarments, I should have gone about it in the following manner:

The ascent was ground-up solo on shattered rock a long ways from my car with no one to come look for me no matter how long I was gone. It was winter and I was working with a notoriously fickle Hilti TE-10a battery.

You weren't there and have never been there.

A thousand pardons for intruding on your ethic nirvana
By Jimbo
Feb 7, 2014

Your right Ronin I've never been bold enough to do a 30 foot 5.8 FA more than 20 feet from my car. You be bad.

"If so the answer is simple: don't climb at the Shaman Wall or really, on any of my lines... most are adults only." If this isn't thumping your own chest I don't know what is.

This has got nothing to do with ethics. I said your are, and should be, free to do FA's in any style you want. But calling anyone who might dare to attempt your death defying new route "bitches" is nothing short of laughable, especially on a 30 foot 5.8.

P.S. I've been there more times than you can imagine.

A thousand pardons for bursting your over inflated ego bubble.





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