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Strange Magic 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kat Whipple
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: KWhipple on Sep 24, 2015

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the plaque

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Amazing overhanging arch that's about 5 inches with ripples on the wall for feet. The bottom flake and last 10ft of the climb are thin hands.

Location 

Strange Magic is visible at the top of the trail to the right of Little Magic and to the left of Like a Horse and Ride the Pony.

Protection 

One each of .5 cam, red metolius and green metolius. 2 each of black metolius, #3's, # 4's and #5's. On sight first assent used an old #4 and #3.5 in addition to this gear, but its possible to use similar sizes. (Be mindful placing gear in the flake at the bottom it's thin in places.)


Photos of Strange Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: on sight, first ascent
on sight, first ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: the climb
the climb

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