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Upper South Corner Cliffs
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Straighten Up 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: May 19, 2014
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 21, 2014

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Description 

Some years back, Todd Paris and I dragged his new rope up for an exploratory, "alpine" ascent along the then-remote South Corner Cliffs. Our line ran out of pro after a beautiful crack below a steep face, degenerating into a wandering mess. With some fixed gear in place, this is the "direct" version that we wanted to do.
Climb the short face onto the lower ramp, then step right onto a block and make an awkward mantle onto the next ramp (if you are tall enough, you can reach that ramp directly). Walk down 12' to the gorgeous vertical handcrack and climb it to its end at a small stance. Climb the knobs and plates above (passing 3 bolts) to easier ground and finish up at a fixed anchor. Alternatively, clamber up the brushy ledge to the next wall and climb something there.
It is possible - and much easier - to access the vertical crack by climbing directly up along the upper, narrow ramp. We chose to ascend as per the original Paris-Harrison alpine route, which is more interesting.
It is also more challenging (5.9, and the original means of ascent) to climb up the plates directly; but one can use holds to the left to gain a meter or two and thus avoid the initial lift-off crimps.

Location 

About 125' uphill and left of Bodhi Tree, and about 100' right of, and below, the Jammer Wall. Look for two right-rising ramps, one above the other, and begin about 50' right of their lower ends, below a short, right-leaning vertical crack.
Descend by rappel off the fixed anchor.

Protection 

Standard Adk Trad rack plus 3 QDs for bolts, and possibly a #4 C4 if you opt for the original start.
2-bolt anchor at the top as well.


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