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Straight To The Throat 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 12, 2013

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Straight To The Throat climbs the grey water stre...


Straight To The Throat is the wild and steep crack line to the left of She's A Squirter, and essentially shares the start with that route. Though this route features excellent sections of face climbing, the harder climbing is going to test your crack skills. This line is a solid and unique classic, which will most likely leave you gasping for air.

Climb awesome holds past three bolts to access the crack which starts off with a wide pod. If you have a good wing span, there are a few choice hand holds, and faint feet which allow for a very long move to the distant rail. If you are of a shorter persuasion you will most likely have to do an offwidth move or two to pass this pod section. A deceptive, bulging, and splitter section of 5.12- off fingers (#.4, .5) awaits you and is most certainly the crux of the route. The gear here is very good. After the jam test there is a good shake, which is nice because there are another set of cruxy moves getting to, and moving over the small roof at the 2/3 mark 5.11-. PLEASE be careful under the roof because while we pull on the largest block- there are a number of lesser chock stones behind it of unknown integrity. After the roof, a few big hero moves and big holds take you to the anchors.


Left hand overhanging crack line.


I placed two #.4s and a #.5 during the crux section, and a #.75 at the higher roof, though #.5 or #1 would also work. Five bolts. Clipping first bolt of She's A Squirter optional.

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