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Straight to Rehab 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson, Drew Bedford
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 12, 2016

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Topo for Straight to Rehab. We added a belay ancho...


This is a really fun bolder problem. We kept lowering off it on the way down from White Lines/Heisenberg and decided it might make a good warmup for the steep climbing above. At first we thought it would be much harder but key beta makes a fun little ditty. If this were on a boulder down in the canyon it would be a super popular V4.

Please note that choss guards the start! We cleaned many of the giant blocks but couldn't budge others. We did the best we could and it is highly recommended you wear a helmet and tread lightly. If you feel you can clean it better, please have at it. Just know that there is one block that you stand on at the beginning that really helps to get started. I jumped on it and all that. Might be better to just tiptoe around it and let it be because once you're on the route, its clean as a whistle.


Approach via the 5.7 start to Death of a Monarch, looking out for the newly bolted belay anchor below the black streaked roof. Climb straight up and aim at the left bolt line.


3 bolts. Shares the anchor with Gateway Drugs.

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By tenesmus
Sep 12, 2016

We were thinking that maybe it would be nice to stick clip the second bolt but didn't need it. If you need the second clipped to work the problem, just go in direct to the first bolt and unless you're an 11 year-old (ie, "fun-sized"; ie, "petite"; ie, "have no reason to live"), you should be able to reach up and pre-clip.

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