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Straight Talk 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1989
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Leading Straight Talk


The furthest right crack on the south-east face. This crack is steep but the jams are all there. Near the top there is a hole, at that point, angle left across the face to the chains. This is just after the crux.


2 draws for the chains set a decent anchor, although they create a pendulum. They can be attained by traversing along a small sloping ledge. To lead it bring a standard rack.

Photos of Straight Talk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Straight Talk
Leading Straight Talk
Rock Climbing Photo: Just getting ready to cross the face at the end.
Just getting ready to cross the face at the end.

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By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Sep 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Short but excellent jams. A big swing for the second if the leader traverses to the chains. A gear anchor is possible, and the walk off is quite simple.

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