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Brenda from Kansas T,S 
Denver Nugget T 
Golden Child T 
Greenfield T 
Jersey Devil T 
Lobo T 
Louisville Slugger S 
Minnesota Fats T 
Obscurity Risk T,S 
Philadelphia Flyer T,S 
Probe, The S 
Straight Out of Compton T 
Transylvania T,S 
Yosemite Sam T 

Straight Out of Compton 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Sue Schima and Moe Hershoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Denver Nugget and Straight Out of Compton.

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  • Description 

    Start left of Minnesota Fats at a thin hand crack. Climb up the left of two cracks. Great jams and stemming moves will get you over a flake/bulge. Continue up the crack to a tree and rap...or top out and walk off to the west.

    A really good route that should clean up after more ascents.

    Protection 

    Gear up to a blue Camalot.


    Photos of Straight Out of Compton Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: One way to do the crux.
    One way to do the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: We cut left just above the bulge and went to the b...
    We cut left just above the bulge and went to the b...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Straight Out of Compton and Denver Nugget.
    BETA PHOTO: Straight Out of Compton and Denver Nugget.

    Comments on Straight Out of Compton Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2006
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Gear up to #3.5 Camalot. The wall on the left side is still shedding and needs more of a scraping than a brushing. You can go left to the anchors for Golden Child to rap off.
    By schmitie
    Jul 22, 2011
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

    Not to be an ass, but the YDS is supposed to rate by the hardest move on a route. This route is 8-/8 on that scale. That said it, it is a one trick pony, although the start is also solid 7. I managed to use high feet and the left pocket to hit the horn with my right at the crux. My second claims you can extend your right hand to a jug near the proper of Denver Nugget to power through the crux. Fun moves though.
    By Keith W
    May 22, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    First off, this area is sweet! Great views of Castle Rock. Thought it was pretty fun and solid 5.8 in my opinion. Lots of great stemming and a fun crux sequence. I brought a #4 and used it but not totally necessary. Went left to the anchors for Golden Child to rap.

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