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Straight Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Oct 23, 2012

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Climb steep, orange rock with the hardest moves at the beginning. This direct start is best started from the top of the dagger of rock at the base. it is also possible to avoid the direct start and start in a crack with broken rock on the left. Starting from here is a fine option on towrope or you will probably want the second bolt pre-clipped if doing so on lead. This lefthand start is more in the 5.9 range.

Ample rests and large holds characterize the rest of the climb which ends below the large roof.

This reclaimed route takes the upper path of a previously bolted route and was straightened out and cleaned up to provide for a new moderate route in an increasingly popular, moderate zone.


It is on the far right of the section of wall with the Sno Cone moderates. Look for a sharp dagger of a rock protruding from the ground below the steep, direct start. It is left of the two short, slabby moderates.


10 bolts and anchor.

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By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Direct start is hard if you are less than 6 feet tall.
By Ben Sachs
Aug 30, 2013

No longer the 1st route after Pistola.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 9, 2016

There are a silly number of "X" marked holds on this thing - denoting loose holds. One is roughly the size of a microwave. Glue or a crowbar are in short order. There isn't really anywhere to go for the belayer if some of those holds start to fly.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 20, 2016

I hear ya about the X-marked holds. The big block wouldn't move with a 3 foot bar, but I know it looks questionable. A hold up high worked loose last summer and now has an X on it, although it's kind of "puzzle pieced" in there. I'll go over this route again with the bar and maybe some glue, probably in the next week.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 21, 2016

Thanks, Michael!

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