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East Gate Buttress
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El Chollo T 
El Guapo T,S 
El Pipe Dream T 
El Segundo T 
Flakes, The T 
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Keelhaul T 
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Only Human Var. T 
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Stradler T 
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Wild Things T 
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown- Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang June 3, 2011?
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Arie on Jul 27, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Sean at the base of the skinny Keelhaul with the o...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Probably won’t be high on anyone’s tick list, but we were there, and it looked fun. Stradler climbs the off-fist to groping-chimney yawn left of Keelhaul directly behind an old pine that is occasionally used to rap the fourth class terrain into the East Gate Gully (see photo here: ). Luckily the outer lip of the crack is positive and steep enough to avoid full body penetration into the granite grinder. Liebacks and saddling are the play with a certain level of grit-groveling is to be expected. Numbers 4, 5, and 6 C2s were all handy. Belay from blocks on a ledge. Rap from these same blocks with a chunk of webbing.


Climb to the top of Tingey’s Torture and scramble to the base of the Axis of Evil. From the base of the Axis drop over the ridge into the East Gate area to a fine mountain goat nook, scrambling down a hundred feet or-so until Stradler and Keelhaul are obvious on the right. Alternatively, make your way up the East Gate gully, passing Desperado, and climbing the next gully north and west. The routes are at the head of this gully. Keelhaul is well-visible from the Winter Diversion area of the Black Peeler.


Bring some big stuff or just run it out.

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