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Coyote Rocks
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Stout Wanker 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Trevor and Eddie Bowman 6/15/04
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 9, 2009

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The route follows the crack splitting the face bet...


The "Siamese phallus" tower! A straightforward clean aid route up the obvious crack bisecting the spire’s west face. Has the best rock in the Coyote Rocks. The crack widens up top and can be free climbed to the ledge (single shut anchor here), where you can scamper carefully up hollow rock to the summit.


Obvious tower from where you parked. It's the rightmost tower in the overview photo.


Single set of cams to 3" and stoppers, aiders, single cold shut anchor--needles-style rap or lower leader and counterweight-anchor for second.

Photos of Stout Wanker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Loaded for bear on the FA of Stout of...
Loaded for bear on the FA of Stout of...

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By Clay Stoner
From: Sheridan, Wy
Jul 23, 2017

FFA 7/23/2017 - Climbed on chipping feet and hollow features through precarious movement ending in a relieving hand jam. Takes good enough gear with small shallow cams (x4's, c3's, or mastercams) and stoppers for the balancing start. Felt 5.11- PG-13 free. With a single pass of cleaning it could possible have the PG-13 removed and be a 3 star free route. Great area to get out of the summer heat and enjoys some high elevation cragging!
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jul 24, 2017

Nice work Clay, always thought that one should be a decent little free option. You should go back and scrub it up! And maybe one day I'll get back up there and clean up some of these other little choss heaps.

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