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Bartizan Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Earthly Delights T 
Elrod's Epic T 
Kevizan T 
Lion's Share T 
Naked Rib, The T,S 
Storming the Castle T 
Window on the West T 

Storming the Castle 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Schwartz, Chris Hirsch, Kyle Rott (Ground-up) 10/14
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Oct 12, 2014

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Description 

Similar to the Naked Rib with it's exposed arête climbing. The first pitch isn't deserving of the four stars but the 45 meter 2nd pitch certainly is! Mixed climbing with some distanced bolts. Not for the 5.10-limit leader, but great for anyone looking for more of a mental challenge at this grade.

1) 90' 5.10
Start up crack that fades away. Move up to bolts. Quite chossy below roof, but gets better over the lip. Clip some pitons, one bolt, small gear if you want it then to the anchors with a small stance.

2) 140' 5.10
Take off onto the narrow, steepening rib with few bolts. Lots of sidepulls on excellent rock through the crux. Sling some horns on easier terrain and stay right to get back onto arête. Easy finish to a nice belay.

Location 

This is the next rib formation to the right of the Naked Rib. Hike a short distance off the main trail to reach the start at the bottom of the gully that takes you to Crack of Earthly and Window on the West. Double rope rap.

Protection 

Bolts
Pins
Small gear
Bolted rap anchors with webbing


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By t.schwartz
Oct 15, 2014

Big Walling at the Bartizan!
By Mike Madsen
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 21, 2014

Is this the route that had the bail biner on it at one point? or does your route go up the actually rib proper?
By t.schwartz
Oct 21, 2014

The first pitch was completed by someone else. Various types of hardware from multiple eras were found on the first pitch? Unknown route? Kertzman chime in! We completed the second pitch which gains the rib proper for a fantastic long and airy pitch!
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Oct 22, 2014

Anthony, On this one I will humbly state I have few if any relevant details to share. Regards, Brent
By Mike Madsen
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Oct 22, 2014

Either way great work! Looks like a stellar line I have looked at it before.

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