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Storming the Castle 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,182
Submitted By: Mike Robinson on Mar 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Storming the Castle.

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  • Description 

    The crux is 2/3 of the way up. It is a fun route.


    This is on the face/arete right of Comeback Crack and left of Curving Crack. It is a new route, 1 year old.



    Photos of Storming the Castle Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh demonstrating his master technique, toprope b...
    Josh demonstrating his master technique, toprope b...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The 4 bolts (and 2-bolt anchor) of Storming the Ca...
    BETA PHOTO: The 4 bolts (and 2-bolt anchor) of Storming the Ca...

    Comments on Storming the Castle Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2016
    By Jimn Seiler
    From: North Platte, NE
    Jun 25, 2007

    What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections
    By Mike Robinson
    From: Worcester, MA
    Aug 22, 2007

    Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!!
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Dec 14, 2007

    Has Headline actually been redpointed yet?
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 10, 2008

    The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order?
    By RalphE
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 29, 2008

    I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above.

    Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity.
    By Todd Ritter
    From: Lafayette
    Aug 12, 2009
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now.
    By Luke Childers
    Jan 31, 2010

    Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!!
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 13, 2010
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet.

    IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here.
    By kirkadirka
    From: Boulder
    May 26, 2011

    I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it.
    By Peter Yakovchuk
    From: Tempe, AZ
    Sep 13, 2011

    It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 15, 2011
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack."
    For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too.

    Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position.

    The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d.
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Mar 27, 2012

    Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead.
    By Luke Childers
    Sep 6, 2012

    Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arête and face climbing.
    By Todd Felix
    Nov 4, 2013
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before.

    I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts??
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Nov 16, 2013
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arête climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face!
    By Matt Rhodin
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 2, 2016
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Not a squeeze job in the slightest. Super fun route! A little heady around the third bolt with that ledge looming beneath you. I blew it and landed right on it. Totally mellow fall though! If you get nervous about that, don't be. Just enjoy the fun, techy climbing.

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