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Storm Mountain Ice Falls
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PsychoBabble Gully T 
Storm Mountain 

Storm Mountain 

WI4 PG13

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original: WI4 PG13 [details]
FA: Rick Wyatt and Dave Jenkins in 1979
Season: Mid-winter Inversions
Page Views: 2,824
Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Dec 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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TDA wishes Bill Bones a Happy New Year.

Description 

The most difficult part of this climb is finding it in perfect condition. As soon as the inversion even starts to lift, this climb begins to deteriorate. It will be gone within the week, due to it's southern exposure.

Location 

South facing, just north of the storm mountain picnic area and east of psychobabble wall. Typical descent is up the pillar, over the top, down the gully just east of the ice. In poor conditions, rap the route (be prepared to V-thread).

Protection 

screws.
If you get there late on a warm day and want to tick it anyway, you'd better bring some stoppers too. I did :)


Photos of Storm Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Storm Mountain Ice 1-14-13 Photo: Zach Clanton
Storm Mountain Ice 1-14-13 Photo: Zach Clanton
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun times 02, 2016
Fun times 02, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: 12/7/13. After 5 days of sub-freezing temps.
12/7/13. After 5 days of sub-freezing temps.
Rock Climbing Photo: Storm Mountain Falls 2/10/04... sun-baked ice, the...
Storm Mountain Falls 2/10/04... sun-baked ice, the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Head for the pillar, you can't go wrong.
BETA PHOTO: Head for the pillar, you can't go wrong.

Comments on Storm Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By bsmoot
Dec 26, 2007

There is now a bolted rap station at the top of the first pitch (about 60M). oops I meant 30+ meters.
By James Garrett
Jan 8, 2008

As I installed two higher bolted stations above Brian's and thereafter rapped the route, the first pitch is actually 30m (can be rapped with one 60m rope) not 62m as mentioned above. The upper raps down the route (from the top and from the base of the upper steep pillar) are double rope rappels from anchor to anchor so one needs two ropes anyway. I have heard this has already been repeated (the raps), but it is advisable to rap from fixed bolted anchor to fixed bolted anchor (very smooth) and so forth instead of from the 4th pitch tree belay to the #1 belay as stuck ropes may be the consequence.
By James Garrett
Jan 16, 2008

Another pitch up some pretty cool mixed moves ascends to the final belay which is above the cord/tree belay. You didn't find the final fixed belay because it is higher than where you climbed, it seems.

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