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Brian on the excellent jug fest.
|All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. MORE INFO >>>|
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
This is an excellent line up the arete to the right of Supercrack. The first 2 pitches are the best, with the last bit being the typical easier Shortoff style topout. This route was originally done with a "stopperhead" for "pro", and linked into the end of P-1 of Supercrack via a traverse. It was recently taken to the top, resulting in yet another excellent full length Shortoff route.
P-1 Boulder up past some hidden cams (from below) to the bolt. One can get a good rest here if they are flexible enough... Continue up the arete and face past lots of good horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor at about 90'. Note: The original route followed a left diagonaling seam up to the Supercrack anchors. This pitch packs a pump!
P-2 It is easy enough to belay from the big chockstone ledge to the right for slightly more comfort. Anyway, climb the crack feature in the wall above (inside gully) to a short hanging corner. Pull around that and move up and left to the arete and climb to the big ledge for a gear belay.
P-3 Climb any number of variations to the top, either as one pitch or 2 broken up.
Just right of Supercrack
Standard Shortoff rack
Skip this beta if you don't want to spoil the pump...