|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||off white on Mar 17, 2008|
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|Comments on Stonewall Squeeze||Add Comment|
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From: San Diego, Ca
Jun 3, 2013
Don't know if I'd concur that this climb requires a "standard rack". To me, that's nuts and single cams from #.3 - #3.
The very bottom portion of the crack is very wide. I couldn't even get a C4 #4 in until a good 15 feet up the crack, and the start of the crack is already a good 15-20 feet up on a sloping ledge. Not a good place to fall.
This weekend, at the bottom of the wide squeeze crack there was a small flake with a dyneema sling stuck behind it on the face to the right of the crack. Seemed okay and I clipped that, though it's really too low to avoid grounding on the sloping ledge. About another body length up at a decent stance there is a small flared crack on the face to the right of the "squeeze" crack. It took a while to get a nut in that I felt "okay" about, but I still wasn't too thrilled about the thought of falling on it. Several feet of grunting above that (only the second, MARGINAL piece of pro, remember) you can finally get a solid #4 in the crack.
After that, it gets better and the climbing difficulty eases up ,too, but much of the crack is still wide. There are two good horns to sling and clip on your way up, if you bring long enough draws.
If you want to protect the bottom of this climb and feel really secure about it, supplement your "standard rack" and bring your big-boy C4s (#5 and #6)