Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Upper Tier
Select Route:
Armed and Dangerous TR 
Babies on Fire T 
Green Dihedral T 
Left Chimney T 
Little Dihedral T 
Peace in Mississippi S 
Right Chimney T 
Rocky Horror TR 
Romper Room T 
Sardonic Lady, The T,TR 
Sierra Club RCS Railing route Left T 
Sierra Club RCS Railing Route Right T 
Stonewall Squeeze T 
Strictly Vegetarian TR 

Stonewall Squeeze 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: off white on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the first prominent wide crack as you come down the west face from the Railing Routes. A face variation starts fifteen feet left, between the flakes and joins the crack above. Near the top of the crack, follow a ledge right and move over the bulge on good holds. Easy face leads to the top. Doing it in two pitches may ease rope drag.

Location 

West face of upper tier

Protection 

standard rack


Comments on Stonewall Squeeze Add Comment
Show which comments
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
Jun 3, 2013

Don't know if I'd concur that this climb requires a "standard rack". To me, that's nuts and single cams from #.3 - #3.

The very bottom portion of the crack is very wide. I couldn't even get a C4 #4 in until a good 15 feet up the crack, and the start of the crack is already a good 15-20 feet up on a sloping ledge. Not a good place to fall.
This weekend, at the bottom of the wide squeeze crack there was a small flake with a dyneema sling stuck behind it on the face to the right of the crack. Seemed okay and I clipped that, though it's really too low to avoid grounding on the sloping ledge. About another body length up at a decent stance there is a small flared crack on the face to the right of the "squeeze" crack. It took a while to get a nut in that I felt "okay" about, but I still wasn't too thrilled about the thought of falling on it. Several feet of grunting above that (only the second, MARGINAL piece of pro, remember) you can finally get a solid #4 in the crack.

After that, it gets better and the climbing difficulty eases up ,too, but much of the crack is still wide. There are two good horns to sling and clip on your way up, if you bring long enough draws.

If you want to protect the bottom of this climb and feel really secure about it, supplement your "standard rack" and bring your big-boy C4s (#5 and #6)