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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Don Burroughs, Mike Ward & Alan Busby - '93
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: susan peplow on Mar 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Take the lower deck and wander behind a scrub oak bush. The start is at a deep hueco. The route climbs steep varnished rock using scoops & thin edges.


4th route from the right side of the wall. Behind a scrub oak


8 bolts to chain anchors

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By Aaron S
Apr 29, 2008

Getting the second bolt requires either a difficult awkward clip from below or you can do a few more moves, into ground fall range, to a better stance. Up higher there is a bolt right over a decent sized edge that juts out. The fall above there wouldn't be far but your ankle might not appreciate meeting that ledge.

This is my least favorite route at Stone Wall.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 30, 2011

Agreed, watch moving to the second clip, hard dangerous move with groundfall.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 30, 2011

The hardest moves are just above the first clip. By the time you are making the second clip a fall could put you close to the ground but you are less likely to fall at that point.

Overall a pretty cool route. Powerfull moves down low lead to technical balance intensive stuff up higher. When I did it the lack of chalk up higher made for interesting route finding.
By gregthedude
From: cvo
Apr 1, 2012

Gotta recommend a stick partner started this route and fell before getting the second bolt. Slammed square into me and knocked me damn near out......
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 30, 2016

Whoever bolted this route should have their drill taken from them. Several of the bolt placements defy common sense. In particular the second bolt, the one above the small ledge above, and the one after that. This route felt hard and sustained for the grade. I wouldn't argue if someone called it 11d.

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